When he was a child growing up in Iran, Al Hashemi used to revel in the camaraderie and tasty food served every Friday night, when his extended family would gather for a joyous dinner. He never dreamed that his future life would revolve around creating festive meals in a distant land. That wasn’t the plan, after all. He was supposed to get his degree in engineering in the U.S. and then return home.
But while he was diligently studying at the University of Tulsa, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the last Shah of Iran, was overthrown, ending Iran’s historical monarchy. After, Hashemi was cut off from home and needed to make money, so he started working in a restaurant kitchen.
He was a cook for a while, and then got a job as general manager with a restaurant chain. He continued his engineering studies for years, but at some point decided that restaurants were his life. He’d been traveling for the chain, but he’d fallen in love with a woman he met at TU. It was time, he decided, to marry and settle down in Tulsa.
Then, he started his own restaurant. He’d always loved Italian food, so that’s what he served. He called it Camerelli’s, and during the 15 years it was open, it achieved Tulsa icon status.
As for the woman he fell in love with at TU… Well, sometimes you’ll see his wife, Laurie Tilley, walking through Al’s newest restaurant, Sapori. Their daughter Sarah, a graphic artist for the Washington Post, helped try out some of Sapori’s entrees and is also responsible for much of the light and airy decor, including many of the artworks on the walls. Sapori is, indeed, a family affair.
The menu is Italian and seemingly straightforward. But when Hashemi created the recipes, he threw in lots of surprises.
“I didn’t want just another Italian restaurant,” he says. “I wanted undertones of flavors from the Mediterranean, the Middle East and Iran.”
The arancini has saffron, and the lamb is made with turmeric and cinnamon.
“That lamb so reminds me of home,” says Hashemi. “We eat a lot of lamb, and the smell of the meat brings memories of Iran back to me.”
Hashemi plans to add more Mediterranean dishes to the menu. A recent special featured stuffed grape leaves with a saffron cream sauce. And while there are certainly already nods to a variety of countries throughout the menu, Sapori is firmly rooted in Tulsa. Bread comes from local baker Slate Sourdough, the decor highlights work from local painters and, when available, they use produce from local farms.
The love for Sapori runs deep. Hashemi has, after all, a legion of loyal followers from Camerelli’s. Every Thursday, he features a dish from his previous restaurant just for them – and that dish is usually available all week long to those savvy enough to request it.
Sapori’s space was, until recently, home to Tucci’s, Doris Matthews’ memorable blend of glitz and pizza, and Hashemi has kept some of Tucci’s favorites, including Matthews’ famous limonata salad.
A lot of work goes into all this, Al says. Everything is made fresh daily. The red sauce, the lasagna, the meatballs, the risotto. But that’s not what the Hashemis think Sapori will be remembered for.
“Al is here all the time,” says Tilley. “It’s like walking into a private home and the owner is there to take care of you.”
Al, who can often be found warmly greeting the regulars and the newcomers alike, agrees.
“A neighborhood bar and restaurant,” he says. “That’s what Sapori is.”
