The enigmatic city of León, Nicaragua, is a bohemian bastion and a university town to boot. Artists, poets and revolutionaries created León’s panache.
Waking up in León delights the senses and brings promise to a new day, as street washers clean the debris from the prior evening’s crowds. Being a pedestrian-friendly city laid out on an easy grid, one thing you have to do is count the blocks, as there are no street names. A safe city with little to no need for tourist police, León allows you to meander freely past many street food vendors offering enormous chicharrones, enticing stews and exotic fruits. A bit claustrophobic and bustling, the city startles you at first — then grows on you.
Cathedrals on corners command the attention of all, but the showstopper is the UNESCO site, Cathedral de León, the largest cathedral in Central America. Lion statues “guard” various entrances and appear to salute the center square with their imposing, roaring expressions. Ascend the narrow stairwells to the rooftop for panoramic views where there are only two rules: remove your shoes and don’t climb on the domes. You’ll feel instantly appreciative of this sacred place. The balustrades, domes and bell tower impress, but nothing fascinates as much as the Giants of León; muscular male statues supporting the rafters. Ceremonial gunshots drive flocks of birds perched onto the cathedral rafters into a frenzy as they swoop through the sky in a cyclonic formation.
In the square, you’ll amble past the revolutionary street art and murals. The toppled statues from the revolution are now displayed in the art museum. Broken pieces are remnants of a bygone era and provoke complex emotions as they lay near a video demonstrating footage of the revolution in action. The heat is intense. When you tire of it, drop into Hotel El Convento, a former convent now boutique hotel. A posh dining room set among Victorian artifacts, antiques and an indoor garden offers delicious cuisine and blessed air conditioning.
After siesta, it’s museum time! Lauded the best contemporary art museum in Central America, Museo de Arte Fundación astounds you with a collection so massive it’s housed in two buildings. Your mind is stimulated by all of the mediums as you view the galleries with birds flying over the indoor gardens.
When night cools, the food trucks heat up. The array is mesmerizing and reminds you that it’s OK to forego the restaurants for casual simplicity on the go. The street cleaners begin their work as vendors, vagabonds and locals participating in rallies and festivals have added their grit and grime to the streets. The sound of fireworks removes any fatigue and signals a new dawn.
Mornings bring the aroma of the Nicaraguan desayuno (breakfast) and pastries. The short drive to Las Peñitas beach reveals a landscape of volcanoes and farmlands, but you’ll also spot a quaint village market along the way. The peaceful beach town has vibrant murals and villas where you’ll observe fishermen and boats in the cove. Virginal beaches with massive waves startle you with their untouched, natural beauty. Unequipped and serene, you marvel that there are still places in the world that are this authentic.
Linger through breakfast, lunch, drinks and free parking for a few dollars or cordobas. Boulders clustered together beckon you to climb on them while massive waves crash over the boulders’ crevices creating a waterfall effect. Skilled surfers glide along the rip-roaring waves like nature’s ballet. What Belize and Honduras are to scuba divers, Nicaragua is to surfers!
Return to León for evening strolling through cobblestoned streets of chromatic buildings with ornate doors. More ceremonial gunshots or fireworks fill the night sky saluting the pomp of León.
