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The Real Deal

Go east on Tulsa’s 36th St. North, past brown and stubbly fields, bales of hay neatly stacked and then, after crossing Sheridan, turn right on a snaky narrow road past freight depots and other airport outbuildings. There, low slung and easy to miss, a building next to a big hangar comes into view: it’s Evelyn’s Soul Food. Inside, it’s upscale...