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A Taste of Hidalgo

Adan Salas rises with the sun and arrives at El Hidalguense on Tulsa’s east side. There are fresh, fluffy, corn tortillas to be made (“and when we’re crowded, that’s a lot of tortillas,” he says), chickens to be roasted, sour cream to be concocted, and mole – dark, complex, slightly sweet, with hints of chocolate – to be prepared....