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A Taste of Hidalgo

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Adan Salas rises with the sun and arrives at El Hidalguense on Tulsa’s east side. There are fresh, fluffy, corn tortillas to be made (“and when we’re crowded, that’s a lot of tortillas,” he says), chickens to be roasted, sour cream to be concocted, and mole – dark, complex, slightly sweet, with hints of chocolate – to...