The Dutch Caribbean island of Bonaire is surrounded by splendid coral, protected for nearly 50 years by a massive marine sanctuary filled with 350 species of fish, five dozen kinds of living coral and sparkling, peacock-blue water. Bonaire takes stewardship of its sea life seriously, and scuba divers rank the reefs among the world’s best. It’s the B in the ABC Islands, along with Aruba and Curacao, about 50 miles off the coast of Venezuela.
Eighty established dive sites dot the reefs surrounding Bonaire, most notably Bon Bini Na Cas and Witches Hut near 1000 Steps beach, just north of Kralendijk, the island’s capital. To the south, an old wrecked smugglers freighter called the Hilma Hooker lies in about 60 feet of water near where a double reef system begins. The 235-foot shipwreck is a favorite of marine life and divers.
A pioneer in eco-tourism, Bonaire (pronounced bone-air) not only safeguards and restores its reefs for divers and snorkelers, it also protects the wetland nesting and feeding sites of sea turtles and migratory birds. Thanks to early planners like Capt. Don Stewart, the father of dive tourism, the Bonaire National Marine Park now totally orbits the island, protecting beaches, reefs, flora and magnificent birds like herons, flamingos and pelicans.
Three of the world’s seven species of sea turtles inhabit Bonaire’s glittering waters. Green and hawksbill turtles can be seen year-round, while the 400-pound loggerheads generally visit only during nesting season, April through December.
Grab a kayak and glide through mangrove forests amidst the natural wonder of Lac Bay, a stunning lagoon on the island’s southeast coast. The park-protected bay presents a lovely color palette – white sand accented by green mangroves and blue water. Nearby, Sorobon Beach is famous for windsurfing, quirky bars and great beach food.
Kralendijk (pop. 10,000) is wholly walkable. Thread your way down bustling streets lined with brightly-painted Dutch/Caribbean homes and shops to Plaza Wilhelmina, the town square. Art galleries fight with boutique specialty stores for your attention and both share curb space with eclectic restaurants.
Shoppers find bargains on Bonairean salt products for home and bath, exquisite jewelry made of driftwood and coral, original local artwork, and all manner of aloe vera ointments, balms and lotions, made from plants grown on the island.
You probably can’t bring it back with you, but while there, give the local cactus liqueur a try. The slightly sweet, bright green stuff is called Cadushy of Bonaire, and it’s made locally out of limes and native Kadushi cactus. Sip some with your stoba kabritu, Bonaire’s unofficial national dish, a slow-cooked stew made of vegetables, spices and goat.
Café menus may also mention lionfish burgers, iguana soup, fish pizza and a sort of gumbo made of okra and seafood called guiambo. (This is not beef country.)
There are only four designated breeding grounds for the Caribbean flamingo and one of them is on Bonaire, the Pekelmeer Flamingo Sanctuary, no humans allowed. But you can peek into the preserve from a road above it and the birds are also known to frequent Pink Beach, which is close by. During breeding season, January to July, upwards of 10,000 of the beauties call the southern tip of Bonaire home. Not too far away, Donkey Sanctuary Bonaire cares for more than 800 sick, injured or orphaned donkeys, descendants of the donkeys, goats and pigs brought to the island by Europeans in the 16th century. Most still roam the countryside.
Stay on the water at the Bellafonte, a 22-room boutique hotel just outside Kralendijk. Enjoy the ocean front plunge pool, dive shop, on-site restaurant and fantastic sea views. The hotel’s private pier gets you access to Bonaire National Marine Park and the reef. Every suite comes with front-row seats for the brilliant sunsets that fill the western sky with fiery ruby reds and neon oranges.
