This densely packed city of ten million sits in a basin surrounded by low mountains in northwest South Korea, 35 miles from North Korea, on the strategic Han River. The wide waterway divides the city before ultimately meeting the Yellow Sea.
For 600 years, Seoul has served as the area’s capital, juxtaposing ancient temples and palaces with nightlife, restaurants and hiking trails. Hiking is popular, and as a result most everywhere you want to go is on a trail in the central city and into the mountains. For travelers, Seoul’s compactness is a virtue.
The city’s struggle to survive through various occupations – it changed hands four times during the Korean War, 1950-1951 – is well documented in the metro’s more than 100 museums. Tours to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) can be booked that include views of the north and a look at the notorious Third Infiltration Tunnel. High-security sites are accessible only by organized tour.
If it’s artifacts you’re looking for, the National Museum of Korea has 220,000 of them along with a massive art collection, paintings by Buddhist monks, a fifth-century Silla gold crown, Korean calligraphy (Seoye) and exquisite silver ornaments.
The National Folk Museum on the grounds of Gyeongbokgung palace offers glimpses into how Koreans lived in years gone by. The palace itself is the largest and arguably the most stunning of Seoul’s five palaces. It was constructed in 1395 and served as the first official residence of the Joseon dynasty.
The city’s second palace, equally opulent, is Changdeokgung Palace (1405), just a short walk across the historic Jongno district at the foot of Bugaksan Mountain.
At the other end of the spectrum, Seoul boasts two historic districts featuring traditional Korean houses (called hanoks) where people still live and work, adhering to and preserving the old ways.
Many trails follow the Han River or its tributaries. One of them, the 22-mile long Trancheon Stream, is famous for its springtime cherry blossoms.
Shopping is great sport in Seoul. The country’s largest traditional market is Namdaemun, best known for bags, shoes and clothing. For name brands, visit Myeongdong, a more modern market full of glitz and glamour. Both offer some interesting food stalls.
Stock up on Korean skincare products from Olive Young and top fashions from Nyunyu and Matin Kim. Many shopping districts are busiest after dark, staying open until 5 a.m.
Foodies will want to try bibimbap, a native dish of rice topped by vegetables, sliced beef and a fried egg, all mixed with a chili pepper concoction called gochujang. Another option is thinly-sliced grilled marinated beef in an entrée known as bulgogi.
And, of course, there’s kimchi, the spicy side dish made with fermented cabbage or radishes that finds its way onto almost every Korean table.
Described as a romantic island in the center of the city, Namsan Seoul Tower presents remarkable views from the top of Namsan Mountain, 770 feet up. As you scale the tower, you’ll pass art galleries, lounges, cafes and observation decks.
What’s said to be the longest bridge fountain in the world – the Moonlight Rainbow Fountain on Banpo Grand Bridge over the Han – comes alive during summer evenings with music and light shows.
You can’t leave town without visiting an authentic bathhouse, called a jimjilbang, for a soak in mineral pools, a trip to the sauna or a service like a body scrub or massage.
As for accommodations, there’s an excellent hotel right in the center of the action, the Le Méridien Seoul Myeongdong in Myeongdong Center. Two hundred deluxe suites, European-inspired lobby bar, French restaurant and a health club on the 15th floor with indoor pool and fitness center.
Do as the Koreans do and leave your shoes at the door and please, as per custom, no tipping.
