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Charming Cartagena

From Romancing the Stone to the iconic, drug-laden “Smuggler’s Blues” episode of Miami Vice, Cartagena, Colombia’s edgier and downright dangerous-at-times nature has been widely celebrated. But it is perhaps as a setting for several Gabriel Garcia Marquez novels that the magical realism of the charming, historic waterfront city has been best fleshed out.

Officially, the U.S. State Department still warns citizens that Colombia can be perilous, particularly outside of tourist areas and in the countryside. Unofficially, though, tourism to the country from the U.S. and elsewhere has expanded exponentially in recent years with relatively few incidents.

Cartagena is a Caribbean beach resort on Colombia’s north coast and for centuries a trading and economic powerhouse. Several walls and fortresses in the city that stand to this day led to it being dubbed, “The Walled City.”

The sea is a prime attraction here for many visitors, and beautiful beaches, warm clear Caribbean water, fishing and countless watersports abound, as do eco-walks and tours.

Those who can tear themselves away from the natural splendor can explore the city’s rich history and architecture and capture the city’s essence on foot, strolling the old city (generally the most interesting area for visitors and within ancient walls), and enjoying public squares and cafes. Among the most popular sites is the Palace of the Inquisition, an historic park with a statue of Simon Bolivar, popular plaza and the nearby 16th century Cathedral of Cartagena. The Santo Domingo Church is home to the sculpture Mujer Reclinada (“Reclining Woman”), by the renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero. Other architectural and social highlights include the Clock Tower, Castle of San Felipe de Barajas and the Plaza of Santa Teresa. History buffs can’t miss Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, considered the strongest fortress ever constructed by the Spaniards in any of their colonies.

The fascinating Cartagena Gold Museum displays gold and pottery of the Sinu people who inhabited the region centuries ago. The worthy Museum of Modern Art is located in part of the 17th century former Royal Customs House.

Nightlife and dining in Cartagena abound, with some hot spots being the see-and-be-seen Café del Mar, clubby Mister Babilla and the extremely well regarded restaurant, La Vitriola. Still, many things change fast in Cartagena and new dining, nightlife and shopping sites can quickly spring to life – an accomplishment for a romantic city with such a colorful past.

Stay In Style

Accommodations range the spectrum in Cartagena, including many exquisite hotels.

Sofitel Santa Clara has a long history but really took off after conversion to a luxurious hotel featuring 162 rooms, 18 suites, a bar worth visiting even if you’re staying elsewhere and outstanding service. www.sofitel.com

Santa Teresa Cartagena, a Charleston hotel, pairs luxury with convenience. Located near many of Cartagena’s significant sites, the luxurious hotel integrates traditional elements of Cartagena with contemporary luxuries including a well-regarded spa, gym and fine concierge service in a stunning environment. www.hotelcharlestonsantateresa.com

Casa Pestagua Hotel Boutique Spa was originally a home to a powerful aristocrat and its colonial architecture bears witness to that today. Eleven exquisite rooms are accentuated with personalized service, beautiful pool, grounds and courtyard that all reflect historic charm. Spa services and modern amenities add to the experience. www.casapestagua.com

At a Glance

Cartagena sits on Colombia’s northern coast and is more aligned as part of the Caribbean than other Colombian cities.

Access: Rafael Nunez International Airport is easily accessible from most international airports with most flights connecting in-country through Bogota.

Population: Approx. 950,000

Climate: Tropical with frequent high humidity with rainy seasons typically in April – May and October – November.

Main Attractions: Beaches and watersports, historical sites and architecture driven by a long, storied past, a handful of well regarded museums.

Hot Picks

Eat: Opting for set menus for lunch or dinner can cost as little as $2-$3 and offers a chance to sample the many influences in Colombian cuisine.

Negotiate: Taxis are plentiful in Cartagena, but listed fares are more akin to minimums or suggestions. Always negotiate a price before getting into a Cartagena cab.

Explore: The truly adventurous and brave can explore the colorful and eclectic Mercado Bazurto, Cartagena’s labyrinthine central market to experience a day in the life of a local. It’s essential to take precautions because of the press of humanity carrying currency.

Visit Online

www.colombia.travel/en/

Taste Gallery September 2011

Wine Notes

When nothing but the taste of a crisp, chilled white wine will do, we often reach for Chardonnay. Or Pinot Grigio. Or, in a pinch, a Riesling. But what about Chablis? For years, this lesser known white wine has been an outcast, the butt of jokes, more recognizable as the namesake of a colorful character in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil than as a drinkable wine.

But perhaps the less-than-stellar reputation of Chablis in the U.S. comes not from the product, but rather from the lack of knowledge about the wine. Chablis is a wine made from chardonnay grapes that are grown in the northern region of France. The wine takes on different tones than chardonnay, however, because they are not traditionally aged in oak barrels, but rather in stainless steel vats. Chablis should taste clean and crisp – a bit more tart than Chardonnay – and it pairs particularly well with seafood, such as oysters, lobster and fish.

The recommendation: Steve Kennett of Old Village Wine & Spirits says the shop carries only one true Chablis, Domaine Savary, at $29 per bottle.

“French wines in general don’t sell much in Oklahoma,” Kennett says.

Ranch Acres Wine & Spirits offers a variety of Chablis, ranging in price from $20.99 to the $70 range.

Beat the Heat

Summer in Oklahoma can be described with one word: hot. Of course, there are many adjectives and phrases you can use to help modify and support it. A few that come to mind are “sweltering,” “awfully” and “Why exactly do I live here?”

Since Oklahoma is such a hot place, I’ve come up with a list of summertime activities to help beat the heat and get your mind off the temperature gauge.

Try noodling. Maybe this was a bad idea. I think I’d rather dive off the Catoosa bridge than stick my arm deep inside a murky hole on a riverbank in hopes that a mean giant catfish will bite it off.

Hook up the hose to an old Wham-O! Fun Fountain and try not to let the clown hat hit the ground. Remember this toy? It was a water fountain that looked like the head of circus clown. You’d connect your hose to the clown, put a silly cone-shaped hat on it and then turn on the faucet. When you did that, a 10-foot tall stream of water would shoot out from the top of the clown, and the hat would dance beautifully atop the stream like it was floating on air.

Yeah, I don’t remember that either. That’s because it never worked. The hat would only stay in the air for a few seconds before it fell and hit some neighbor kid on the head. After the neighbor kid ran off crying, you and your friends would then take turns jumping over a giant clown head that shoots out a stream of high pressure water. Nothing weird about that, right?

Go to Big Splash or White Water by yourself and try not to look too creepy. To make this one even more challenging, drive a white van with tinted windows and call yourself Mr. Charlie. Or maybe bring along the clown head fountain thing and ask for a water hose.

Serve as an indentured servant for someone at Grand Lake. I can’t afford a house at Grand Lake, so I thought about entering the community’s Indentured Servant Program. It’s pretty cool. You work as a maid or butler for some rich family on Monkey Island and after seven years, they give you a canoe…with a dock. The dock is totally worth it.

Listen to Sports Talk Radio. On the International List of Boring Things to Do, listening to Oklahoma sports talk radio in the summer ranks right between watching the old lady across the street check her mail and listening to audio cassettes of Charles Ely reciting slam poetry. There’s literally nothing going on sports-wise in Oklahoma during the summer, and the sports conversation is either about some University of Oklahoma practice report or how the Cardinals are going to choke away the National League Central.

So why would you do this during the summer doldrums? It will put you to sleep. And when it’s 105 degrees outside and kids are making western omelets on the sidewalk, that’s not a bad thing.

Find out how Patrick is faring in this heat wave at www.thelostogle.com

Top Judge

Steven W. Taylor was appointed to the post of Chief Justice of the Oklahoma Supreme Court in 2004 by Gov. Brad Henry. In 2007, Oklahoma Magazine named Taylor one of “100 Who Shaped Us,” a list of Oklahomans who influenced the first 100 years of the state. In 2009, he was inducted into the Oklahoma Hall of Fame.

I never set out to become Chief Justice of the Supreme Court – that is not something you can plan for. After law school, I served four years active duty in the US Marine Corps. I was trained as an infantry platoon commander and later served as a prosecutor, defense counsel and then became a trial judge. That experience taught me that one day I wanted to serve on the Oklahoma bench. I came home to McAlester, practiced law, served as mayor, and in 1984, Gov. George Nigh appointed me to the District Court. I loved being a trial judge and wanted to do it the rest of my life. In 2004, the Supreme Court seat in my part of the state came open for the first time in more than 40 years. Gov. Brad Henry appointed me to the vacancy, and in 2010, I was elected Chief Justice.

I was the trial judge for the Oklahoma City bombing case against Terry Nichols for the state trial concerning the 160 civilians killed in the bombing. This was the largest first-degree murder case in the history of the United States. It focused the attention of the nation on the Oklahoma justice system, and I felt the huge responsibility of assuring a fair trial and a final verdict that would guarantee confidence in the Rule of Law and the fundamental fairness of our system of justice. That goal was accomplished.

The Supreme Court hears civil appeals and is the Constitutional head of the judicial branch of government and has supervisory control of all the state courts. We study every case that is sought to be heard by our Court and accept those that are first impression, major legal questions or involve Constitutional issues. We write opinions on every case we take after all nine Justices have fully reviewed every point of law and after the Justices have deliberated and discussed every opinion in our twice-a-week conferences. It is a very vigorous and detailed process, and I enjoy every minute of it. We have some very interesting debates among the Justices, and that assures the quality of our final work. 

I have spent my entire professional life doing my small part to uphold the right to fair trial and equal justice in the courts of our state. That has been my mission for over 27 years as a judge and is my life’s work. And I enjoy that work more today than ever.
 

Fresh Music – August, 2011

Various artists, Muppets: The Green AlbumAs if the Jason Segel-penned reboot of the Muppet movie franchise, set to hit theaters in November, wasn’t gaining enough buzz, Disney is releasing a set of classic Muppets tunes performed by contemporary artists. Andrew Bird takes on “Bein’ Green,” OK Go reinterprets “The Muppet Show Theme,” The Fray sings “Mahna Mahna,” and Weezer teams up with Paramore’s Hayley Williams on “The Rainbow Connection.”

Beirut, The Rip TideZach Condon and his band have done what few would even contemplate: turn Balkan, Mexican and French folk music into an acclaimed pop sensation. For their third, full-length album, Beirut eschews an encompassing World music theme, though the hallmarks and instruments are still there, in favor of a decidedly mature pop feel and sound.

Lenny Kravitz, Black and White America Kravitz has had a remarkable 20-plus year career, despite the fact that his blend of funk, psychedelic and classic rock often confounded music critics and executives. He’s said that his music reflects his background, having a black Christian mother and a white Jewish father, and a range of influences. His latest opus takes Kravitz to a deeply personal place. Musically, the album ranges from funk to pop to rock, but his lyrics explore race, diversity and unity in modern America.

Red Hot Chili Peppers, I’m With YouIt’s hard to think about a band as popular as the Chili Peppers staging a “comeback.” However, after the (second) departure of guitarist John Frusciante, the band’s future was unclear, but the band’s remaining members were soon looking for the perfect replacement to allow them to continue in the Chili Peppers’ tradition. According to a recent interview with Rolling Stone, the new album, their 10th, does just that. But if it reminds you at all of The Rolling Stones, it’s no wonder. Frontman Anthony Kiedis told the magazine classic Stones’ albums such as Exile on Main Street and Tattoo You were huge influences.

Midwest Magneto

For Ada resident and inventor Jeff Baird, necessity gave birth to an electromagnetic generator that he says uses magnetic energy to create electricity without fossil fuels, wind or solar power.

 Years ago, a self-induced financial hardship and an angry wife motivated him to find a solution to their power problems.

 “When I started this project, I didn’t know much about electricity,” explains Baird. “My first few machines looked like Frankenstein. I have been electrocuted a few times and burned a lot of stuff up working on this.”

Baird’s machine has come a long way from the first model.

“The first generator would burn four 100-watt light bulbs, then recharge itself after 10 hours,” says Baird. “The next (version) would run for a few days. The current model will run continuously and support a steady 3,000 watts.”

The simplicity of the generator surprised Baird.

 “We are using electromagnets to pull a piston plate moving a generator that stores the electricity,” explains Baird.

Because patents are still pending, Baird would not provide the specific details of the electrical workings of his machine.

However, Jason Brezinski, an electrical engineer with the Federal Aviation Administration, who has spent the past eight years working on and designing low voltage systems for the FAA’s mission critical facilities, explains how such a device could conceptually work. He likened the process to a rotary engine, except the generator uses magnets to produce force rather than internal combustion.

Baird does volunteer that he uses batteries to get the whole process started.

“The generator is only as good as your worst battery,” Baird says.

For Brezinski, this poses a problem.

“Batteries are the only cost-effective means of storing electricity we have, but they’re plagued by their own problems,” cautions Brezinski. “And they’re not particularly environmentally friendly.”

Upfront cost, size, weight, reliability and maintenance are all factors that might work against the prognosis for a device like Baird’s, Brezinski speculates. 

 “It probably would not be cost effective in the city except when the power goes out,” says Baird. “But in the country or rural worksites, it would offer a lot.”

Baird sees many uses for the electromagnetic generator.

“I am thinking large and small. I see people using it to run small appliances or as a portable electricity source,” he says.

The Chickasaw Tribal Utility Authority apparently recognizes the generator’s potential. CTUA and Baird entered into a business relationship in 2010 that gave CTUA first right of refusal for exclusive licensing.

“I am looking for the right people to take this further than I can,” explains Baird.

Baird has been inventing for more than 20 years, but he says many people thought him crazy for quitting a lucrative business to focus on his electromagnetic generator.
“I have always found a way to get my stuff done,” offers Baird. “But, I have a room reserved in the nut house, just in case.”

Business Barriers

Tony Henry knows a few things about operating businesses in Oklahoma. After all, the managing partner of Tulsa’s Full Moon Café and Wolfgang Puck Bistro has owned numerous restaurants in the state and has dealt with myriad challenges.

Henry, like many other business owners, believes that for all the accolades Oklahoma has received, there remain many potholes in the road to a good statewide business environment.

In the past few years, that environment has been lauded in magazines and in the reporting on national and regional surveys. However, small and mid-size business owners in Oklahoma find that there remain distinctive barriers to the success and expansion of homegrown businesses, and feel that the state could do more to foster a healthy private sector.

“One of the biggest issues for us is workers’ compensation – it is so expensive,” says Christine Booth, co-owner of Hawley Design Furnishings.

“We had a woodworker with an injury who went to a local emergency center. It cost $1,700 and the company paid only $300. And we have a good (provider). The bill every month is so high and the return is so little. It’s almost worthless.”

Tony Jordan, manager of Jordan and Sons homebuilders says that he hasn’t yet had to deal with a Workers’ Compensation claim.

“Thank God, I haven’t had to,” Jordan says. “I’ve got seven employees and workers’ comp is expensive in Oklahoma.”

In fact, workers’ comp rates in Oklahoma are higher than any other state in the region and have been escalating dramatically. According to a comparative study conducted by the State of Oregon, Oklahoma had the fourth highest rates in the country as of 2010, having risen from ninth nationally in just 2008, and from 15th in 2004. By comparison, Texas has seen its (already moderate) rates decline, and Arkansas and Colorado have some of the lowest rates in the nation.

“That’s wrong,” Jordan says. “We don’t like insurances as is – there is no benefit. There should be benefits for those of us who don’t have claims.”

Henry says that one likely cause of the state’s high rates is fraud.

“It’s the system that needs modification,” Henry says. “We need something that gets workers back to work quicker and which reduces fraud. Workers’ comp systems have a lot of fraud. Sometimes in Oklahoma, people sit at home and are happy to get paid for it.”

“Because we have such a huge deficit, government should look at itself and ask how it could make things easier.”

Henry says the state could address this business barrier.

“A lot of business owners would like to see more enforcement and penalties related to workers’ comp fraud,” he says.

Many feel that healthcare is another obstacle.

“There are things out there like Insure Oklahoma to supposedly help with health insurance rates, but you have to go through hoops for it and if you are even slightly successful in your business, it’s no help at all,” says web designer John Coffey of Bixby’s Hot Coffey Design. He adds that a group plan offered through his local chamber of commerce is also of no help – with the premiums being almost three times as high as a private policy.

Although Henry says he feels that Insure Oklahoma – a state program helping low-income workers acquire health insurance – is a good start, more needs to be done in the healthcare area.

“I’d like to see more programs like that,” Henry says. “I think a very high percentage of our employees are most likely uninsured. We’re very nervous about what’s proposed at the federal level because it won’t be affordable. It will drive some small businesses under.”

Booth says that Insure Oklahoma is still out of reach for her employees and that with the limited bargaining power of a small business, a company insurance plan is even further from reach.

Muskogee’s Alan Landry retired several years ago after operating numerous businesses around the state. He says he’s glad his days in business are over.

“It’s too expensive and too dangerous to be in business in Oklahoma today,” Landry says. “You never know when more regulations and fees are coming and it is outrageously expensive to even hire people. With payroll taxes, fees and whatever new mandates they cook up all the time, it’s impossible to plan long term and long-term planning is a key to success.”

Others certainly agree about the “cost” of hiring.

“Because of things like the worker’s comp rates, we’re looking at hiring more contractors than we are full-time employees,” Booth says.

Coffey says it is more cost-efficient to hire people overseas on a per-project basis even at up to $50 an hour than it is for him to hire employees.

“It works out better for me that way because there is no incentive for me to hire someone,” Coffey says. “I have never seen it worse for small businesses than it is today.”

“The bill every month is so high and the return is so little. It’s almost worthless.”

Amanda Duenner, president of Daniels Greer Properties, says that even Oklahoma’s much-praised quality of life advantages are matched by similarly themed shortcomings.

“When companies are considering relocating here, they look at things like that our school system is struggling, crime seems to be increasing and even that Oklahoma is one of the fattest states,” Duenner says. “All of these things relate to quality of life.”

Despite keen awareness of Oklahoma’s business pitfalls, small and mid-size business owners still believe there are things communities and government can do to improve the situation. Besides action in terms of Worker’s Compensation rates and health care, other suggestions abound.

Duenner, for example, believes the state would be better served by more direct flights from the international airports.

“I’ve heard a lot that Tulsa is very hard to get to,” she says.

Duenner says that additional incentives to attract and retain businesses could also be helpful.

Booth agrees.

“There are things the state could do to promote Oklahoma businesses,” she says. “For example, there are a lot of trade shows that are very expensive to attend. It would be helpful if the state sent a contingent to these shows to promote Oklahoma businesses.”

Henry says that dealing with state bureaucracy is a regular challenge but that it shouldn’t be.

“Because we have such a huge deficit, government should look at itself and ask how it could make things easier,” he says. “What’s good for us is good for them and that helps with their deficit.”

Coffey says that government should have the funds it needs for improvements.

“There was supposed to be all this money from (lottery) and from casinos, but I don’t see it.”

What We’re Eating

Campus Grill

The small restaurant located across the street from TU’s Reynolds Center serves exactly what you would expect from an establishment with the word “grill” in the title: hefty burgers, hot sandwiches and tasty sides. Burgers are the favorite here, and Campus Grill is serving them smothered in chili and cheese, Southwest-style with bacon, guacamole, jalapenos and pepper jack cheese or grilled with sautéed mushrooms, onions and Swiss cheese. Breakfasts are equally satisfying, with choices like pancakes, omelets and breakfast burritos containing chicken or sausage, green onion, cheddar and eggs wrapped in a jalapeno tortilla and served with breakfast potatoes. 3148 E. 11th St., Tulsa. 918.938.7043.

Flatire Burgers

Just across the street from the campus of UCO is a burger joint that’s a “great place to break down.” At least, that’s what the proprietors of Edmond’s Flatire Burgers would like you to believe. And why not? Burgers, nachos, fish tacos – this eatery offers them all. The first to try, of course, is the restaurant’s namesake: a dozen and a half burgers and sandwiches, ranging from a basic cheeseburger to The Flatire Blowout, topped with lettuce, tomato, pickle, onion, bacon, fried egg and cheese. But Flatire has also gained a reputation for its fish tacos, which are served with either yellow fin tuna or tilapia – your choice. Don’t depart Flatire without ordering the s’mores. This DIY dessert is served with graham crackers, chocolate pieces and marshmallows you roast over a flame at your table. 318 E. Ayers St., Edmond.
www.flatireburgers.com

Lulu’s Bake Shoppe & Cafe

It’s a quaint little bakery and lunching place in south Tulsa that thrives on its word-of-mouth reputation. Simplicity is the name of the game at Lulu’s, and it’s that simplicity that shapes a menu full of delicious sandwiches, satisfying soups and fresh salads. Try the tangy Genevieve, a sandwich comprised of Brie cheese with ginger chutney on ciabatta bread. Or opt for the Warm Spinach Salad, a bed of baby spinach with red onions and toasted pecans drizzled with warm bacon dressing. Part café and part coffee house, Lulu’s menu also includes an array of baked goods, from pastries and cookies to fruit pies and cakes. Mama’s Carrot Cake is jeweled with raisins and walnuts and topped with a thick, cream cheese icing, while the fruit pies can be filled with apple, peach, cherry or berry. 8162-C S. Lewis Ave., Tulsa. www.lulusbakeshop.com
 

A Male Concern

It’s been strongly linked to cervical cancer. Eighty percent of American women will be diagnosed with it before the age of 50. It’s the most common sexually transmitted disease. Human Papillomavirus (HPV) is a problem that’s been seen, until now, as a female problem. New research, however, shows that 50 percent of American men are infected with HPV, and the virus can cause cancer in men, as well.
The rising number of infected men, though, is no mystery, according to Dr. Mary-Ann Bowl-Witchey, an obstetrician and gynecologist with St. John Medical Center in Owasso.

“Gardasil, the first vaccine for HPV, when it originally came out, was limited to young women because we were the ones who got cancer. It’s now been approved by the FDA for young men, as well,” she says.

In fact, until vaccines were approved for use in men, HPV treatment was solely focused on women.

HPV is tougher to diagnose for men as well. While some of the less dangerous forms of the virus produce genital warts, most strains initially express no outward signs. Doctors can’t see it, their male patients are unaware of it and the problem goes unsolved – all while more and more women are being vaccinated every day. Now that vaccines have been approved for young males, doctors believe the number of men infected with HPV will begin to decline.

The vaccines aren’t foolproof, though. There are more than 40 strains of the virus. They’re constantly changing, making them difficult but definitely not impossible, to vaccinate against. HPV strains mutate in the same way as flu strains. Of the 40 known strains, though, only about 15 can lead to other health complications. And in almost 90 percent of cases, the body’s immune system cleans out HPV within two years.
As it is with so many health issues, education is the key to locking down HPV.

“I think that public awareness of HPV is probably more common. Now that we have vaccines, they’re advertised and the public is more aware of HPV,” says Dr. Taneisha Buffin, an obstetrician and gynecologist at Integris Southwest Hospital.

“I think also that we’ve always focused on cervical cancer screening. Now we’re focused on getting the younger population vaccinated and catching some of those high-risk types of HPV that are associated with cervical cancer. I wouldn’t say that HPV is so dangerous. It’s just about making the public aware and getting people screened.

“If you find HPV early enough, there are things we can do to treat it and try to prevent it from progressing to a cancer.”