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15th Annual Woody Guthrie Folk Festival 

If you haven’t heard, Woody Guthrie was born 100 years ago this year, making 2012 a special marker in the state’s arts and social history. The hero songwriter who composed "This Land is Your Land" and other ballads during his days on the Dust Bowl road came from Okemah. The small town in Okfuskee County, naturally, hosts the Woody Guthrie Folk Festival, also known as WoodyFest. The 15th annual festival, July 11-15, includes a long list of favorite singers, songwriters and musicians from near and far; Arlo Guthrie and Judy Collins are this year’s headliners. Other guests include familiar favorites Jimmy LaFave, the Red Dirt Rangers, Terri Hendrix, Lloyd Maines, Butch Hancock, John Fullbright, Susan Herndon, Monica Taylor, Michael Fracasso and Billy Bragg. Also be on the watch for folk rock’s up-and-comers Samantha Crain and Jesse Aycock. Go online for a complete line-up, schedule and ticket information. www.woodyguthrie.com

Sky's No Limit

This article originally appeared in the July 2010 issue of Oklahoma Magazine. Betty Riddle, one of the WASP pilots interviewed, died on June 8, 2012. She was 88.

Everyone did something. The men went to war. The women went to work. The kids recycled candy wrappers for the aluminum. And the Women Airforce Service Pilots (WASP) zipped up their oversized mechanics’ uniforms, cinched the baggy waist, rolled up the long cuffs and slid into the cockpit with an adventurous smile under their pin-curled hair.

They took to the skies and, for those 1,074 WASP and the women who have followed their brazen legend, the skies haven’t been the same since.

Finally, A Medal

“We didn’t realize we were blazing a trail. It never crossed our mind. We weren’t blazing a trail, we were helping to win the war,” says Deanie Parrish, WASP and associate director of Wings Across America, who stood on a platform in Washington, D.C. on Wednesday, March 10, 2010, and accepted the Congressional Gold Medal on behalf of the WASP.

At last, acknowledgement had come.

“Over 65 years ago, we each served our country without any expectations of recognition or glory,” Parrish said in her acceptance speech on Capitol Hill. “And we did it without compromising the values that we were taught as we grew up – honor, integrity, patriotism, service, faith and commitments. We did it because our country needed us.”

She spoke to a crowd of more than 200 WASP and their families who had traveled to the nation’s capital to attend, like WASP and Tulsans Betty Ferrol Riddle and Elizabeth “Betty” Smith.

Parrish spoke for them, as well as for herself, and the courage of all the WASPs, once young women in an unheard of military experiment, who did what no one expected – made history.

License To Fly

It was a different time. In many ways glorious, in many ways gruesome.

The world was at war for the survival of liberty, and as the Allied Forces proved their valor and moxie abroad, their families and friends had a job to do back home. They had to keep their military armed, their airplanes staffed.

The war needed all hands, even the softer, more petite ones. The women now had different shoes to fill. Airplanes needed to be built. Industry needed labor. America needed pilots.

A few gutsy women had proven their worth in the skies, women like Jacqueline “Jackie” Cochran, a famous female pilot in the 20th century who proposed the concept of a military pilot training program for women. WASP was her brainchild.

WASP would combine the Women’s Auxiliary Ferrying Squadron (WAFS) with a military pilot training program and fly stateside missions, eventually flying more than 60 million miles. The women would be trained to fly nearly every plane in the Army Air Force inventory, all 78 different types, from transports to cargo ships to bombers to pursuits.

However, to be accepted in the WASP seven-month training program, there were a few prerequisites, including education, age, even height and weight.

“I remember one girl who ate a bunch of bananas to make the weight,” says Riddle, who graduated from WASP training in 1944. “A couple of others hung on tree limbs to stretch their height.”

But if you weren’t a wisp of a girl, were at least 5’2 1/2” and could pay your way to and from training, you only had one hurdle left. You had to be a licensed pilot with a required number of flying hours.  

Out of the 25,000 women who applied, only 1,830 were accepted, and only 1,074 graduated. The training would put them through everything their male counterparts endured. And the perception of the 1940s woman would forever change.

The Challenge

Parrish worked in a bank in the afternoons during her Florida high school days, cashing checks for good-looking flight instructors who only wanted to talk about flying.

She didn’t know of a single girl taking flying lessons and wanted to know why. So she asked the cadet flight instructor.

“‘Just because I’m a girl, why can’t I learn to fly?’ He had no answer.”

But her challenge intrigued him. He used his private Piper Cub plane to give Parrish lessons. By 19, she was the first girl to earn her pilot’s license in her small hometown of Avon Park, Fla.

Up in the Air

Meanwhile, in Oklahoma, the Piper Cub plane was exactly what Elizabeth “Betty” Smith would, eventually, own herself. Or, better stated, own a quarter share.

First, however, she had to get her license. And at the airport, then located at 61st and Yale where the KingsPointe Shopping Center now resides, Smith – age 19 – entered the Civil Pilot Training Program (CPT). Sponsored by the University of Tulsa, the CPT program trained pilots to be ready in case they were needed. The class would accept 20 students, and only two of those could be girls.

In October 1940, Smith and Margaret Ann Hamilton began their training.

Smith says she doesn’t know what put the idea of flying in her head. Her father hated to fly. Her mother, however, had been flawlessly supportive as her daughter collected flying artifacts, hung airplane posters on her bedroom wall and eventually asked permission to learn to fly.

“I wanted to spend all my extra time at the airport, whether flying or not,” says Smith, who believes her father agreed to the class thinking she would only learn about flying. “I remember sitting with my back against the (airport) office wall on a beautiful, autumn day and just watching the activity, watching the planes come and go.”

By January 1941, Smith had her license. She was a pilot. And her mother was her first passenger.

“She was scared because it was a very small plane. She was holding on. But she was game,” Smith says.

A fellow classmate eventually approached Smith, along with her fellow CPT female classmate Hamilton, with a proposition. He would come up with half the money to purchase a Piper Cub, if each girl could come up with a quarter share. Owning a plane, or at least a share, gave Smith the flight time that would very soon be required when she reached age 21 and took a place in history she had no idea she’d fill.

Born To Fly

Betty Ferrol Riddle, however, didn’t need much help acquiring the necessary WASP flight time. Or her license. In fact, by the time she entered the training program at 19, the age requirement now having been lowered from 21, Riddle had 335 hours of flight time, a commercial license, and had passed the written exam to become a flight instructor.

Growing up in Wetumka, Okla., Riddle had been raised around airplanes. Her father was an airplane mechanic, having built one himself using a set of blueprints and his ingenuity when Riddle was only a child. By age 8, she had already had her first airplane ride.

Riddle earned her pilot’s license through the CPT program, taking lessons early in the morning and late at night to fit around her schedule since she was still in high school. Once she had her license, Riddle could rarely be separated from the skies. She flew, often throwing her younger brother in the back for the necessary weight, until age 70, declaring at that age it was probably time to stop.

The Cattle Truck

They had passed their physicals, passed their interviews, passed all the requirements. Now all they had to do was get to Avenger Field in Sweetwater, Texas, to begin the training.

“It felt like a world away. There were no commercial airplanes. I had to ride the train, and it took two days to get from Florida to west Texas,” Parrish says. “I can’t remember how many times I had to change trains. It was quite the adventure.”

Sweetwater, Texas, Parrish says, was basically sand, gravel and rattlesnakes. It was barren and dusty and being converged upon by a gaggle of young girls from across the United States.

When it was time to be transported to Avenger Field for their first day, all the ladies – dressed in their usual attire of skirts and white gloves – were herded into the back of a cattle truck.

Smith, in an earlier class than Parrish, was one of the few classes trained in Houston, Texas, before Sweetwater became the WASP permanent home. Nevertheless, the mode of transport was the same: a cattle truck. Benches along the sides. Canvas over the top. And there the women would be hauled to and from training every day for seven months.

This wouldn’t be the only adjustment.

“I grew up in Wetumka. We didn’t have much in the way of sports for women,” Riddle says. “Suddenly, I had eight other women in the barracks with me.”

Two barracks shared one bathroom, which consisted of two showers, two sinks, two toilets, no privacy and 15 minutes to be ready in the mornings.

“Your inhibitions went away and you learned to go into the shower with other women,” Riddle says.

Parrish says she chose to wait until everyone else was sleeping and shower during the night.

The training was exactly like what the men experienced, including the marching, all the marching, lots of marching, marching everywhere they went.

“As we marched, we sang,” Parrish says, explaining how the women were thrilled to be in training, to be helping their country, and took every duty as a chance to excel. “We were proud. We each tried to be the best in marching.”

They took the challenges in stride, like the jumping and squatting and calisthenics. Even the chin ups, though the women still remember them as grueling and nearly impossible.

The hardest part, Smith says, was waiting to fly. Since she was in Houston, the fog occasionally kept them grounded and waiting in the ready room. She wanted more time in the air. After graduation, she got her wish.

Stateside Missions

Given two weeks at home to say goodbye, Smith returned to Tulsa and shared the news that she would be heading to Love Field in Dallas to work with the 5th Ferrying Group, a mission she couldn’t wait to start.

“I was eager. We were all very eager. We were doing this by choice. We wouldn’t have done it otherwise,” Smith says. “We all loved to fly, wanted to fly.”

Her first mission was taking a PT-17 Stearman, a bi-plane, from Wichita, Kan., to Blythe, Calif. With an open cockpit, Smith crossed plains and mountains and varying topography until she reached her destination and her next assignment.

Soon, she had been transferred to Palm Springs, Calif., to a school that trained ferrying pilots how to fly pursuits, what are now referred to as “fighters.” She learned to fly the P-40, P-39, P-47 and the P-51, which she flew the most, usually taking it to Newark, N.J., where the plane would then be shipped to the European Theater.

Parrish ended up at the Greenville Army Base in Mississippi as an engineering test pilot, although her WASP journey would eventually take her into the skies flying a plane called the “Widowmaker” as a target for live ammunition.

Initially, however, she was commissioned to test planes for cadets in training. If a plane crashed or needed repairs, before it could be released for cadet use, Parrish had to fly it and give it her okay.

After two months in Greenville, the director of operations wanted Parrish to attempt piloting a twin-engine plane, although her training had been only in single-engine aircraft. He took her into the air, had her land a few times, then ended the test.

“‘That’s enough,’ he said. ‘I have three officers that need to go to Baton Rouge. You’re taking them.’ So I did,” Parrish says. “I took those officers to Baton Rouge and came back to Greenville and never told them I hadn’t been in that airplane before.”

Then she got the news. They needed her in Tyndall Air Force Base in Panama City for four weeks of training on the B-26, also known as the “Baltimore Prostitute,” also known as the “Widowmaker,” since so many had been lost. She couldn’t tell her parents about the mission, only about the training.

They weren’t happy.

With her training completed, Parrish spent the next five months in Panama City piloting a B-26 over the Gulf of Mexico. With an assigned spot, an assigned altitude and a specific pattern issued, a target like a large wind sock would be released out of the tail of her plane while training gunners, in a four-engine B-24, would fire live ammunition at the target.

A stray bullet found her aircraft once, but she didn’t sweat it.

“I never got nervous. I had a job to do and I did it without question,” Parrish says.

Back in Oklahoma, Riddle was at the Altus Air Force Base. Graduating six weeks before WASP was disbanded on Dec. 20, 1944, Riddle arrived in Altus to find her sleeping quarters inside the psychiatric ward in the local hospital. Her room, specifically, was inside the security room surrounded by wire with a one-way lock door. If it shut, she was stuck inside. So the door was always propped open.

With seven other WASP, Riddle worked as an engineering test pilot on double-engine planes, checking out the airplane mechanics’ work – always excellent, she recalls – before giving the planes over to the students for instruction.

Closing Shop

When deactivation came in December 1944, it wasn’t welcome. The women had achieved so much, and now it was over.

“We were terribly disappointed,” Smith says. “The war wasn’t over, but we knew it was going to be. The fellas were coming back.”

They were coming back to resume their previous lives, their previous positions, their previous jobs. The women, so desperately needed before, were now released without fanfare.

“One day we are flying for the Air Force. The next day we were riding a Trailways bus home,” Riddle says. “We would have stayed in if we could have.”

But WASP had never been militarized despite plans to do so. No legal means existed to commission the female pilots into the military, though General Henry “Hap” Arnold, Commander of the Army Air Forces, had been instrumental in starting the program.

WASP remained under the Civil Service Commission, despite their military training, military orders, military barracks, military aircraft and military missions. When 38 WASP died during their service, families never received government life insurance. The women remained outside of the military.
The end was the final chapter. The women disappeared into their civilian lives, a whisper of a story untold.

“I hung up my parachute and paid my way back home,” Parrish says.

Time To Remember

As the highest honor Congress can bestow upon a civilian, the WASP’s Congressional Gold Medal is adorned with the smooth, dewy face of a young girl in flying gear with various aircraft on the flipside. The inscription reads, “The first women in history to fly American Military Aircraft.”

It’s that history, not only of her country, but of her mother, that prompted Nancy Parrish, Deanie Parrish’s daughter, to embark on a journey with her mother through time and through the political process that finally brought about the WASP’s long-awaited place in history.

“It was time for America to say thank you,” Nancy Parrish says, referring to a quote by President Abraham Lincoln who said, “Any nation that does not honor its heroes will not long endure.”

After the death of her father, a World War II veteran and the “hero in the family,” Nancy says she began focusing on her mother, who never made a big deal of her WASP service.

In 1998, while working for Public Broadcasting Service, Nancy began studying the WASP and their history, initially considering making a documentary. What she found was nothing. Absolutely nothing.

“No one had anything on them. Nothing. They were mentioned in one textbook in one line,” Nancy says.

That’s when she set off on a journey with her mother, traveling across the United States to meet and interview these women in their homes, more than half a century after their service.

Nancy says WASP founder Jackie Cochran “believed airplanes don’t know the difference between men and women.” And she was right. But what she found was a faction of American history quickly dying with its heroes.

“These women had to not just be good, they had to be better. They were scrutinized every time they climbed into a plane,” Nancy says. “There could be no bumpy landings.”

Gathering the history of the WASP, as told through the women from within, Nancy and Deanie Parrish launched the Wings Across America project and website, also developing a WASP museum in Sweetwater, Texas. Nancy additionally began working under the umbrella of Baylor University as a volunteer to revive the history of these women.

In the process, she worked to create a traveling display that would eventually end up in Washington D.C., and grab the attention of Lt. Col. Nicole Malachowski, the first female USAF Thunderbird Pilot.

Malachowski, a WASP fan, attended the grand opening of the traveling WASP display in D.C. where she met Deanie and Nancy Parrish and eventually drafted the original bill that would ultimately honor the WASP with the Congressional Gold Medal and long-awaited recognition.

“Today is the day when the WASP will make history once again,” said Malachowski, who spoke during the official ceremony in D.C. “If you spend any time at all talking to these wonderful women, you’ll notice how humble and gracious and selfless they all are. Their motives for wanting to fly airplanes all those years ago wasn’t for fame or glory or recognition. They simply had a passion to take what gifts they had and use them to help defend not only America, but the entire free world, from tyranny. And they let no one get in their way.”

The bill was introduced on March 17, 2009, supported by Sen. Kay Bailey Hutchison of Texas, Sen. Barbara Mikulski of Maryland, Rep. Susan Davis of California and Rep. Ilena Ros-Lehtinen of Florida, and approved quickly.

“These exceptional women did not receive the recognition they deserved during World War II and not even for decades later,” said Sen. Hutchison, who was instrumental in the Congressional Gold Medal process. “But on this beautiful day in our nation’s capital, in front of their families, members of Congress and the servicemen and women who have followed in their patriotic footsteps, they finally heard the words they have waited so long to hear: ‘On behalf of a grateful nation, thank you for your service.’”

Parrish stood between the two forces of power in Washington, D.C. – Republicans and Democrats – and united them in their shared history as she accepted the Congressional Gold Medal from Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi; Rep. John Boehner, the House minority leader; Sen. Harry Reid, the Senate majority leader; and Sen. Mitch McConnell, the Senate minority leader.

“All we ever asked for is that our overlooked history would someday no longer be a missing chapter in the history of World War II, in the history of the Air Force, in the history of aviation, and most especially, the history of America,” Parrish said during the ceremony.
It only took all they had, all they could give, and 65-plus years of patience, but the WASP are finally, once again, making history.  

To learn more about the WASP and their individual stories, visit www.wingsacrossamerica.us.

In The Details

When it comes to planning a wedding, staying organized and scheduling everything well in advance can mean the difference between a day that’s magical and one that’s a disaster.

Love In Bloom

Get your ceremony and reception sites booked, finalize the number of attendants in the wedding party and choose your wedding colors before visiting a florist, says Toni Garner of Toni’s Flowers and Gifts. Having those details already in place will make it easier and faster for your wedding florist to help you achieve the kind of look you want.

Some flowers, such as roses, are available year-round, but others may be out of season and more expensive or difficult to obtain, so come prepared to work with your florist and be receptive to different choices. “It’s important to keep an open mind,” Garner says.

Some couples choose to have a few arrangements for the wedding ceremony and reserve the bulk of their floral budget for the reception, says Elizabeth Wallis of Petal Pushers.

For maximum impact, Wallis suggests choosing arrangements with larger blooms for the ceremony. Ferns and greenery also can add visual interest to the ceremony, she says.

Consider having your florist make a bouquet for your wedding portrait session, Wallis says. This bouquet can serve as a test run and help you and your florist determine if any changes need to be made before the big day.

The groom’s and groomsmen’s boutonnieres often center on a flower used in the bride’s and bridesmaids bouquets, according to Wallis.

Old-fashioned rules for wedding flowers no longer hold true, according to Wallis and Garner. Though tradition dictates that bridal bouquets are all-white nosegays or cascade-styles, most of today’s brides opt for less fussy arrangements with a splash of color, Wallis and Garner say. Hues of pink, coral and peach, as well as natural-stem bouquets have been very popular for the past few years, according to Wallis.

Most of today’s brides choose a throwaway bouquet in addition to their bridal bouquet, says Garner, so if you plan to hang on to your bridal flowers, ask your florist to make a mini version to toss at the reception.

With This Ring

When buying wedding jewelry, “the number one thing is to shop with a reputable jeweler,” says Michael Guillory of Moody’s Jewelry. Guillory advises against purchasing rings online or from unfamiliar vendors and suggests couples look for jewelers that are accredited by the Jewelers’ Association of America and the Gemological Institute of America.

If you’re just beginning the search for an engagement ring, allow for at least two months before the proposal, especially for custom or special-order designs, says Michelle Holdgrafer of Bruce G. Weber Precious Jewels in Tulsa.

A classic round solitaire diamond set in white gold or platinum is the top engagement-ring pick for many of today’s brides-to-be, but if you’re planning a surprise proposal and are unsure what your fiancée would like, Holdgrafer suggests enlisting the help of her family or
her closest friends.

Style is important when choosing wedding jewelry, but couples also should factor in their lifestyles when shopping for rings, according to Guillory. “You want the piece to be functional with whatever you do,” he says.

Plan on allowing at least four to six weeks’ lead time when purchasing wedding bands, Guillory says. Special orders or rings made in uncommon sizes may take longer to finish, he says.

 Most of today’s couples opt for white gold or platinum bands, but for those with very active lifestyles, cobalt chrome is an excellent alternative metal for wedding rings, Guillory says, noting its strength and durability.

If size is a factor when choosing an engagement ring, consider having a halo of smaller diamonds added around the center stone, Guillory suggests. The halo can add up to 30 percent more visual effect to the piece.

Ask your jeweler about the four Cs – color, cut, clarity and carats – when choosing diamonds for wedding jewelry. Current popular diamond cuts include cushion cut, emerald cut and round brilliant, according to Guillory.

“The cut of the diamond is where all of the brilliance comes from,” Holdgrafer explains, adding that a superb cut can often compensate for any small imperfections a stone might have.

Sweet Endings

Once you’ve settled on a wedding date and number of guests, make an appointment for a cake tasting and consultation, says Emiline Bauder of Nibbles in Tulsa. Most bakeries will have a specialist on hand who has considerable experience with wedding cakes.

Before your consultation, check the bakery’s website for examples of its wedding cakes, Bauder says. Bridal magazines and websites such as Pinterest also are good sources of ideas for wedding cakes, she says.

The classic wedding cake flavor is vanilla with buttercream icing and sometimes a fruit filling, such as raspberry or lemon. If you want chocolate or red velvet, though, don’t hesitate to ask for them, says Jamie Calkins of Merritt’s Bakery. To offer variety and to accommodate different tastes, ask your baker if he or she can make each tier a different flavor.

Since some guests may like another slice of wedding cake and the newlyweds often choose to freeze the top tier of their cake for their first anniversary, make sure to order extra servings, Calkins says.

Traditional tiered or stacked cakes aren’t the only option for wedding sweets, Bauder says. For an alternative, consider a tower of cupcakes or a dessert table with a variety of treats. Petit fours are a popular choice, too, says Calkins, adding that some couples also choose the groom’s favorite dessert, such as cheesecake or pie, in lieu of a traditional groom’s cake.

If you have elements of the wedding incorporated into the design of your cake, make sure to have color swatches, ribbons and other details delivered to your baker no later than two weeks before the wedding, Calkins suggests.

For larger receptions, consider supplementing the main wedding cake with additional sheet cakes, which can be kept in the kitchen and sliced at dessert time, Bauder says. Doing so helps couples avoid the extra cost of additional tiers, which are more elaborate and labor-intensive.

Location, Location, Location

Warmer months and Saturdays are the most popular times for weddings, and popular sites often book months or a year or more in advance. Make sure to reserve your reception venue as early as possible, says Tulsa Convention Center’s Kathy Tinker.

 Be prepared with a comprehensive list of questions for the venue’s wedding coordinator, Tinker says. Any pertinent information, such as the number of attendants, wedding colors or whether or not the couple would like a special cocktail to be served at the reception also should be provided to the coordinator.

“It helps us to have as much information as possible about the bride’s vision for the wedding day,” she says.

When researching a potential venue, be sure to ask what is included in the cost of having a reception there, Tinker says. Include on your list of questions such things as menus, whether linens and seating will be provided, and availability of wait staff and whether food or beverages from off-site providers will be allowed.

You're Invited

Many couples choose to frame a copy of their wedding invitation as keepsakes, says Miss Jackson’s Ron Allison, so consider the size and shape of your invitations when shopping for wedding stationery. Invitations with unusual shapes or designs may be harder to frame than traditional rectangular ones.

Be sure to send out your invitations well in advance to give guests plenty of time to RSVP and make travel plans, says Margie Brown of Margo’s Gifts in Tulsa. “We’ve had some close calls,” she says, adding that a minimum of six weeks should be given, but several months’ notice is ideal.

Traditional engraved invitations with calligrapher-addressed envelopes are still popular with today’s couples, but if your heart’s set on a whimsical or colorful design, there are plenty of options available, according to Brown and Allison.

For a themed or destination wedding, don’t be afraid to get creative with invitation design, Allison says, recalling one client who sent invitations for a beach wedding in boxes filled with sand.

If you’re planning on a long engagement, save-the-date cards are a good idea for guests, Brown says. Save-the-date cards often are sent up to a year before the wedding.

Ask if your wedding stationer sells wedding planner guides, says Brown, adding that these guides often feature helpful planning tips and room for storing and organizing important wedding papers.

Picture Perfect

One of the best ways to find a wedding photographer is by word-of-mouth, says Chris Humphrey of Chris Humphrey Photographer. Start with recently married friends or family members and ask to see their wedding photos and what they liked about their photographer, he says.

“You get more personal information by talking with friends and family,” Humphrey says. “That referral is usually pretty honest.”

For high-volume wedding months such as May, June, September and October, plan on giving eight months’ to a year’s notice when booking a wedding photographer, according to Humphrey. For other times of the year, at least six months’ notice is a good rule of thumb.

Schedule engagement photos and bridal photos six months beforehand, suggests Encre Photography’s David Spence.

For fun and to add a personal touch to engagement or bridal photos, consider bringing a few props that have special meaning, Spence says, adding that the internet offers a wealth of ideas for wedding photos.

Before booking a consultation with a wedding photographer, check online for examples of the photographer’s work, Humphrey says.

“Online galleries are a huge benefit to brides,” he says. “They get to look at a photographer’s work and see a style they can relate to and see themselves being photographed that way.”

Also important is finding a wedding photographer you can trust and with whom you have a good rapport, says Humphrey.

“Don’t rely just on the photos,” he says. “You need to really communicate and not be afraid to ask the tough questions.”

Happy Honeymoon

To avoid the headaches that come with planning the perfect honeymoon, visit with a travel professional, says Karen Wheelock of Spears Travel. Many travel agencies employ honeymoon specialists who can help you narrow down your options and tailor a vacation to fit your interests and your budget.

Book early – at least three to six months in advance – to get the best value for your honeymoon, says Julie Sondgeroth of World Travel. “You can put down a small deposit and pay the rest off over the next few months,” she says.

Before consulting a travel professional, couples should talk to each other about what their dream honeymoon would be, how long they want to spend at their destination and what their budget will be, Wheelock says.

Passports typically take about a month to be processed and sent back, so if you haven’t registered for one, make sure to do so in plenty of time before the wedding, Sondgeroth says, adding that traveler’s protection insurance is another essential for honeymooners traveling overseas.

Hawaii, Mexico and the Caribbean are current honeymoon hotspots, according to Wheelock and Sondgeroth.

 For a no-hassle honeymoon, consider an all-inclusive luxury resort. Many popular honeymoon locations feature all-inclusive resorts, which cover everything from transportation costs to food during the entire trip, says Sondgeroth.

The Dress

Plan to begin shopping for your wedding dress at least six to 12 months before the wedding, says Jane Kelly of J.J. Kelly Bridal in Oklahoma City.

One key to having a successful bridal gown appointment is to limit the number of people you bring with you, Kelly says. Too many conflicting opinions can lead to unnecessary stress and frustration for the bride-to-be. “Friends are great to bring along, but we tend to look at gowns as if we will be wearing them,” she says. “You should only bring people who have your best interests in mind.”

Bridal magazines are excellent tools for finding your dream gown, but the initial visit to a bridal salon is an opportunity to get even more ideas, Kelly says. Some brides come into a store with a certain style in mind, but end up choosing something completely different from their original vision.

“Most girls end up changing their minds,” she explains, adding that an experienced bridal consultant can help guide brides-to-be toward gowns that flatter them the most and fit with the overall style of their wedding.

Strapless and ball gown styles are still the most popular wedding gowns with today’s brides, Kelly says, but many are opting for more fitted gowns and those with flared bottoms.  

When sending your gown to the cleaners, make sure to use a reputable company that specializes only in wedding gown preservation, she says. Most bridal salons will provide referral information for gown preservation specialists.

Life’s A Beach

Summertime can mean leisurely afternoons poolside, sipping fruity, frothy drinks and catching up on the latest celebrity gossip with a favorite magazine. But what to wear on such occasions? The season’s most sought-after accessories for that perfect bikini include a fabulous cover-up, wide-brimmed hat, metallic sandals and stunner shades. Are these trends new? Not exactly? Are they perfect for summer fun? You bet.

A Spanish Sampling

Every year sees trends materialize suddenly and fade just as fast, often leaving no more sign that they had existed than does a candlewick. Other trends, though, build slowly over time, gradually rising in the consciousness until they explode suddenly in popularity, and a tuned in public responds with a shrug: Of course this is an ‘it’ thing.

Such is the case with Spain. Spain has been a ubiquitous European presence since Christopher Columbus. In recent years, though, aspects of Spain have exploded onto the scene of U.S. consumer awareness. The wines of Spain, long suppressed by the popularity of French, Italian and even German wines, have become a hot item for oenophiles and budget-focused new aficionados. More recently, the cuisine in Spain has been recognized and celebrated in food magazines and media, and by noted chefs. Today, Spain is as much front and center in the minds of Americans as any of its Eurozone neighbors.

Traveling Spain, enjoying and learning about the vibrant country is no easy task. It’s a large country that enjoys tremendous regionalism in terms of culture, cuisine and history. Basque Country is notably different than the Arab-influenced south, and cuisine in Madrid is more intricate and influenced by different factors than the fresh, sea-oriented flavors of the Spanish coast. As is the case with many older nations, exploring all that Spain has to offer could easily be a lifelong study for a foreigner.

However, cutting a swathe and enjoying a sampling – a cross-section – of Spain can be accomplished in a relatively short period of time. You won’t walk away with a comprehensive understanding of Spain. But with a little planning, you will walk away with a deep and abiding appreciation for the country, maybe a new perspective on your own daily life, and probably with a desire to return again when possible.

Modern Madrid

If you visited Spain a decade ago, you will likely notice quickly how things have changed at Madrid-Barajas Airport. Although 85 years old, parts of the airport underwent transformation over the past few years that resulted in it being named Conde Nast readers’ “Best Airport” in 2008. Terminal 4 is the best example. Designed by Antonio Lamela, Richard Rogers and TPS Engineers, the super-modern terminal’s use of glass, metal and natural light is envisioned as a relaxing introduction to the country. That it is. But it also highlights the way much of Spain embraces today and the future to accentuate the sophistication and beauty of a classic European culture. That’s one of the recurring themes of a trip to modern Spain.

You will see this theme and Spain’s other – a relaxed, appreciative lifestyle – on display throughout your stay in the nation’s capital. It’s advisable to stay near the heart of things for your time in Madrid. Hotel Ritz Madrid is an excellent choice. The classic, century-old hotel retains the charm and romance of its era while offering updated rooms and services. It is conveniently located near some of the must-see sites of Madrid – the beautiful Retiro Park, the elegant Teatro de la Zarzuela, and Madrid’s most important museums: the Prado, the Thyssen Bornemisza and the Centro de Arte Moderno Reina Sofia. The Ritz’s restaurants (particularly Goya Restaurant), bars and patio are regular meeting places for Madrid’s high society and are particularly popular following a walk in beautiful Retiro Park, with its Palacio de Cristal. Nearby, shopping mecca Calle de Serrano is a dreamy boulevard of high-end retail.

Madrid has a wide range of other accommodations, ranging from hostels to resorts, but it’s advisable with a limited time frame to stay close to those sites you wish to see. Many common attractions are located in Old Town Madrid, with many others immediately east in Bourbon Madrid. Other must-sees in the area include the magnificent Palacio Real, the monastery-palace El Escorial, the bustling Plaza de Espana and the Real Academia de Bellas Artes, where artists such as Dali and Picasso studied. In addition to the aforementioned trio of great art museums, Bourbon Madrid is also home to the National Archaeological Museum and Teatro Espanol at Plaza Santa Ana, one of the oldest and most beautiful theaters in the nation.

Traversing Madrid, there are countless tapas bars, cafes, bakeries and specialty shops that beckon. Tapas is the essential ingredient of Spanish casual cuisine and exploring the variations and original creations from location to location is a delight. More formal dining is easy to find as well, and can be hit-and-miss despite Madrid being the culinary center of the country. One lauded fine dining experience is at Villa Godio, one of the older restaurants in the city and where the paella is legendary. It’s a wise idea to make reservations well in advance, and it is well worth the effort. For a more casual tasting of Spain’s best and as an ultimate foodie site, stop by the Museo del Jamon across the street from the Prado. You’ll know it’s the right place because of the 600 or so hams proudly displayed, but there are locations elsewhere in Madrid. Here they will serve you the very best in ham, pork and sausage (and cheeses too) – including Jamon Serrano, Spain’s most famous pork product, a heavenly, smoky, dried ham.

Madrid’s fine museums, architecture and theaters aren’t the only aspects of Spanish culture to explore in Madrid. One of Spain’s most popular exports – flamenco – is also on display at sites citywide. Close to Old Madrid, Corral de la Moreira is one of the most famed flamenco houses in Spain and also serves excellent dinner. It’s a must-see to appreciate Spanish arts.

With its long history, sizable cultural and shopping components, prepared travelers should easily be able to coordinate visiting other sites of particular appeal.

Spanish Coastal Living

A decidedly different Spain beckons from the southern coast, where influences lean toward the Arabic and North African. The quintessential coastal resort city of Spain is Marbella, and it is remarkably easy to reach via Spain’s RENFE rail system. Departing from the lush Atocha train station in Madrid – which houses an impressive botanical garden of sorts – it is an easy, high-speed route to Malaga in the south. From there, it is easy to take a bus or cab to Marbella. As you travel south and then west, you will notice the change in culture. Signs begin to appear in Arabic along Spain’s renowned Costa del Sol and bustling city and open country are replaced with resorts and beaches.

Marbella is one of Europe’s most exclusive resort areas, frequented by royalty and celebrities. There are 24 beaches there, and yachts dominate the scenery in places such as ritzy Puerto Banus. Yes, there is culture here even in the midst of excess – the Museo del Grabado Espanol Contemporaneo, for example, displays some of Picasso’s least known works.

But it is still the beach and attractions catering to well-heeled visitors that best characterize Marbella. San Pedro de Alcantara is a quiet resort, the Marbella Club Hotel is ultra-luxurious and La Villa Marbella is charming boutique hotel option. A slightly less scene-driven option is actually outside of Marbella at the Don Carlos Hotel. This grand waterfront property has an Old World charm, modern décor and plenty of pools and patio space. It can be bustling in-season or rather sedate out-of-season.

Exploring Marbella, you will quickly understand why it can honestly be considered The Hamptons of Spain. Around ostentatious Puerto Banus, exquisite shops abound – Missoni, Tom Ford and others. Dining is exquisite as well, with meals almost uniformly accompanied by unctuous sangria. Rancho Del Puerto is notable for its carnivore delights and for its terrific homemade desserts, such as the delicious pudding, ocino de cielo (literally “bacon from heaven”).

Marbella is arguably one of the best places in Spain to fully appreciate those things that will remain indelible experiences for you. Here the Spanish sense of enjoying each day, enjoying creature comforts of fine food and drink and of relaxation seems most obvious. And most alluring. It isn’t easy to leave a place like Spain’s Costa del Sol, and many a visitor has fallen under its spell and dreamed of never returning to the more mundane, less sun-drenched world.

Also appealing from the southern Spanish coast is a slight detour from your visit to Spain. As you head west along the coast toward Gibraltar and beyond, across the water, exotic and romantic North Africa beckons. (see sidebar)

But there is more of Spain yet to see.

Barcelona Bound

It’s a not-unpleasant train trip of six-plus hours from Malaga or Algeciras to Barcelona, Spain’s second largest city and one of the most important Mediterranean port cities. Make no mistake about it – although Barcelona is the nation’s “second city,” locals and many Europeans see it as a quintessential grand city in and of its own. It certainly has its own deep and storied history. But Barcelona is best known for the numerous buildings left by the massive explosion of Modernisme around the beginning of the 20th century and best exemplified by the work of Antoni Gaudi i Cornet. Art, culture and the creative blend together to this day to define Barcelona, one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful cities.

Smart travelers with limited time should seek out accommodations near those sites most important to them. There is plenty of history in Old Town, while the notable architectural sites that best characterize the city are in the Eixample district. The magnificent Hotel Arts Barcelona is a terrific choice, situated next to the Olympic Port and not far from many of the attractions most seek out while in the city. In the Gracia district, the luxurious new Mandarin Oriental is another smart choice, particularly for those people most interested in the architectural works of Gaudi which are nearby. An elegant mid-century building has been recreated with a stylized modern look by Spanish born designer Patricia Urquiola to craft a distinctive hotel setting.

One good way to learn the lay of the land in Barcelona is a bus tour. They are easy to access from almost anywhere in the city and locals advise that choosing the Blue or Red route will be most rewarding. Renting a bicycle is also a good way to get around neighborhoods, although it should be noted that the city rises from the shore as you head inland, creating an ample incline.

Architecture buffs won’t want to miss the treasures of Modernisme in the Eixample. Palau Guell was Gaudi’s first building in the center of the city and established his international reputation. But street by street in Eixample there are delights to be found. The most famous and spectacular is Gaudi’s church of the Sagrada Familia – a site that even those not generally interested in architecture must see.

While touring Barcelona, you’ll find a mix of eateries, shops and purveyors of specialty products, and treasures can be found around any corner. Dining here is widely respected in Europe and, of course, tapas dominate the general discussion. While there might be a tapas bar every half-block in many parts of the city, some consider Taller De Tapas the very best. Ordering can be a challenge around much of the city, but Taller De Tapas’s menu includes English descriptions of some of the most famous – and tasty – of Spanish tapas. Dedicated foodies will seek out Inopia in Old Town, while Old Town’s Agua is a classy waterfront restaurant that takes full advantage of its location.

Old Town Barcelona is traversed by the city’s most famous avenue, Las Ramblas, and around it is one of the most extensive medieval city centers in all of Europe. Culture abounds here in terms of the Museum of Contemporary Art, the must-see Picasso Museum, the Museum of History and its world-best extensive subterranean Roman ruins, the Barcelona Cathedral, Gran Teatre del Liceu opera house, Museu de Cera waxworks museum and others. Carrer Montcada is the most authentic medieval street in the city and is lined by gargoyles and gothic palaces. It’s also well worth it to visit the city’s Gracia district for the Gaudi House-Museum. Montjuic is Barcelona’s biggest recreation area, with the beautiful Parc De Montjuic, the archaeological museum and the Palau Nacional, home of the city’s historic art collection.

Barcelona is a seductive mistress, and a stay here will fan the flames of passion one develops spending time exploring Spain. It is a city – and a nation – to which it is hard to bid farewell. Instead one might merely bid Spain a hearty hasta luego, and wait in anticipation for your glorious return.

Man v. Bull

Bullfighting is intrinsic to Spain, and one of the things for which the nation is most recognized in the U.S. More than just spectacle, bullfighting is a sacrificial ritual pitting men (and some women) against an animal bred for the fight. It is steeped in tradition and ritual and everything from the dress of the matador to the bullring itself is significant to the occasion.

A growing number of Spaniards oppose bullfighting on the basis of cruelty. Many, however, see this as the encroachment of political correctness into a tradition at the very heart of Spain. Supporters also point out that bulls bred for fighting enjoy a very good life up until their competition. Furthermore, it is not always a fatal experience. A bull may go free if it shows courage and spectators signal by waving white handkerchiefs. Still, the sport has been banned in some Spanish cities.

Madrid, Seville, Valencia, Bilbao and Zaragoza have the very best bullfights, with tickets available on site prior to the early evening starts – around 5 p.m.

Tech Tips

Advancements in telecommunications have made it easier to stay in touch with those back home or at the office when traveling abroad – but finding the most reliable and, most importantly, affordable way can be a challenge.

Most cell carriers offer international plans with several tiers offering varying number of texts, MBs of data transfer, etc. If you choose this option, make sure to reset the usage settings on you smart phone to ‘0’ so you can carefully monitor your activity. This is very important because rates become extremely expensive once your purchased allotment is depleted. Also remember that data sent and received both count against your data plan. Once you return from your trip, you will want to call your carrier and disable the plan so your fees are pro-rated for only the amount of time you actually used it.

A more affordable option is to acquire an unlocked phone and install a data card specific to the country or region to which you’re traveling. These cards work essentially like an international telephone card, with prepaid usage limits and the ease of being able to purchase additional time at shops and vendors throughout the destination nation.

You can buy these widely-available data cards once you land at your destination, install and activate, and you are good to go. A better idea is to purchase the desired data card, install and activate it, before leaving home from purveyors such as Telestial (Skype also has services worth exploring). Although the least expensive option, the one down side to this approach is that you won’t have access to data and settings on your regular phone.

While overseas, the least expensive way to handle email and web applications is via WiFi. Make sure to change your settings for WiFi, and you will find it in most hotels, many restaurants and of course cyber cafes. In all of these cases, take all possible security measures to avoid your information being pirated.

Technology has made the world smaller in communication terms – and it doesn’t have to cost and arm and a leg with a little advance planning.

At a Glance

Getting There: Madrid-Barajas Airport is Spain’s busiest airport and served by numerous international airlines. Barcelona, Palma de Mallorca and Malaga have the next largest airports. Spain’s national carrier is Iberia.   

Population: Approx. 50 million          

Climate: Most of Spain falls under the category of a Mediterranean climate, characterized by dry and warm summers. Winters range from relatively mild on the southern coast to cold in the north and in high altitudes.

Main Attractions: Historic and cultural sites and venues, including a number of Europe’s best regarded museums, multiple types of representative architecture, beach and resort attractions in Costa Del Sol, culinary and natural splendor.

Side Trip: Morocco

As you travel the southern Spanish coast, the powerful lure of North Africa might be too much to overcome. And, with a little preparation, there is no reason to fight the urge. Daily ferry service is available to the Spanish territories in North Africa: from Malaga and Almeria to Melilla, and from Algeciras to Ceuta, as well as from Algeciras and Tarifa to Tangier.

It’s easy enough to take a bus from Marbella to Tarifa and then cross to Tangier. Although Morocco is statistically fairly safe to visit, some rules of thumb should be carefully observed. Check with your travel agent about current travel advisories and about documentation and immunization requirements and suggestions. It is also highly advisable to arrange for a guide once arriving in Tangier. Moroccan people are friendly and welcoming, but perils abound for those unfamiliar with the city, as everywhere. There are also local cultural norms and mores that guides can help make sure you observe. Respectful visitors are those that enjoy the best experiences.

Tangier is very easy to navigate around; the two main roads are Boulevard Mohamed V, which runs from near the Medina through the ville nouvelle, and Boulevard Mohamed VI, which runs along from the beachfront. The beachfront is dominated by hotels, eateries, bars and clubs. Mohamed V has a wide range of shops, pharmacies and accommodations such as Hotel Flandria, Hotel Rembrandt. The souk in the medina is the best place for exotic shopping with a degree of confidence; while the infamous “casa barata” (the house of cheap things) is as likely to have good bargains as it is to have forgeries and stolen goods. Again, it’s advisable to rely on the advice of a legitimate guide.

Other sites to see include the Kasbah Museum, Mnar Park and Hercules Cave. Morrocan food with European influences is found at many upscale hotels, fresh seafood at low prices is common around the port, and street food can offer a fascinating array of flavors.

Whether for a few hours or a few days, Tangier offers an entirely different experience than Spain. But it is an experience with enough intrinsic romantic and exotic components to be truly unforgettable. www.tangiertourism.org

Scene June 2012

Taste Gallery June 2012

Just Add Water