Cold weather has a way of making us crave the rich, hearty dishes we’d pass up during those 90-degree scorchers we endure all summer long. Across Oklahoma, restaurants are dishing up the ‘season’s eatings’ meant to satisfy the soul, from creamy pastas and braised meats to steaming bowls of pure comfort. So pull up a chair, settle in and let dinner do the warming.
Tulsa by Brian Schwartz | OKC by Jared Gleaton
Sidebars by Mary Willa Allen
Featured photo caption: Photo courtesy Dalesandro’s
TULSA
Dalesandro’s
Carbonara
Sonny Dalesandro often refers to himself as the custodian of his family’s treasured recipes. Few are more treasured by Dalesandro’s large band of devoted regulars than the carbonara.
Many of us lost count long ago of the number of times we’ve delighted in its decadent creamy sauce. And, observes Sonny, “our carbonara is a great fall and winter dish. It has two types of bacon, cream, parm and penne pasta with peas, topped with pecorino Romano.”
Pro tip: If you want to switch it up, get it with linguine instead of penne.
The Summit Club
Braised American Wagyu Short Rib
It used to be that when a glorious dish was triumphantly carried out from the kitchens of the Summit Club, chef Bill Lyle deserved all the credit. But nowadays it’s Lyle’s longtime protege (they worked together for over a decade) Michael Wilson who is executive chef. He’s been mesmerized with cooking since he was old enough to peer over the top of his family’s stove, and lately he’s been immersed in
world cuisine.
“It’s like travelling the world every day,” says Wilson.
But this autumn special is close to what young Michael saw on his childhood dinner table – with some high-end gourmet touches, of course. It’s braised American Wagyu short rib with bourbon-maple demi-glace, whipped butternut squash, flambeed apples and bacon seared brussels sprouts. Wilson says it’s “the perfect companion for a chilly November evening.”
Bodean
Seared Sea Bass
This dish even looks like fall; chef Tim Swepston has given cauliflower and leeks the homey brown of autumn leaves and used them to garnish the sea bass and beurre blanc. Beurre blanc is not a French mother sauce, but most people think it is because it is just so decadently tasty. This dish is also chef’s farewell letter to Tulsa. He’s leaving soon for Arizona.
During his decade at Bodean, he won the love of a devoted following for his creative New Orleans inspired dishes and for his warmth and kindness. “Some of my favorite memories at Bodean,” Swepston says, “aren’t just about the food. They’re the sound of a full dining room during service, watching people gather around a table, and knowing that something we created helped bring people together and become part of their memories.”
Nola’s
Shrimp and Grits
The cheese grits are creamy, and there’s corn too, all in a spicy Creole butter sauce with eight big shrimp on top. Fall brings cooler weather (finally!) and diners want something tasty and filling. This dish satisfies.
Why do the chefs at Nola love
this dish?
“Because,” they replied, “it’s just really good. The grits are cheesy, the corn is sweet and the sauce has a kick.” This dish has a lot of fans – people come back for it again and again.
Boston Title & Abstract
Poisson Blanc
Roque Heidler’s dishes are known for their intricate complexity and for the long hours he spends working on them to coax out their ineffable beauty.
This one is no exception. A line-caught fish filet rests upon a pancake that’s a hybrid of Japanese cabbage and Jewish potato pancakes, and the searing of the cabbage and potato provides a subtle Maillard reaction.
“The sauce,” Roque says, “will be a roasted garlic, spiked with a little sherry: a creamy subtle bitter sweetness with a hint of tang. I’m topping the fish with Wagyu fat powder, house Chardonnay pearls and a crisp that looks like fish scales, but is made of black truffle. The cabbage, potato, onion and truffle all showcase the flavors and textures of fall produce. And it’s something fun.”
Mandarin Taste
Crispy Duck
In 1999, Sally Yau left Beijing to study in Tulsa, and here she stayed – except during yearly visits to China to find recipes for the restaurant she opened in T-Town. She’s a fount of information about China – traditional and modern – and has used traditional Chinese medicine to pick a dish suitable for a season that features, in addition to changing leaves, less welcome visitors in the form of respiratory viruses.
“According to traditional Chinese medicine,” she says, “duck meat is considered a ‘cool’ food, which helps to nourish Yin and clear internal heat, so people won’t get sick easily.” The dish she’s concocted is delicious as well as healthy.
“We marinate the duck for a day,” she says, “then slowly steam it for two hours to make it fully cooked. The skin is deep fried when the customer orders it.”
The French Hen
Red Wine Braised Lamb Shank on Navy Bean Ragout
The dishes executive chef Bryant Hernandez offers diners at the French Hen are painstakingly prepared and rigorously French – as is this one. But chef Bryant grew up in Mexico and this dish brings back happy memories of childhood November meals with his family.
“We would cook lamb underground for long periods of time,” Hernandez recalls, “to make it nice and tender. It’s comfort food but elevated, and the beans really bring it together for me. Beans are a humble and familiar ingredient in most households that, with a little attention, can be great. More than anything, I think it’s a dish that makes you want to slow down and eat. It’s warm, generous and comforting. And to me, that is what autumn is – or at least what it should feel like.”
Noche
El Caporal Strip
On a Mexican hacienda, the Caporal is the foreman. They must ride and rope better than any other cowboy there, as they do the most dangerous tasks. This hearty steak is named in their honor.
“This 10-ounce New York Strip is rubbed with our signature fajita seasoning, served over a silky sweet potato purée, alongside sautéed asparagus and finished with a dollop of house-made rosemary-garlic butter,” according to the chefs at Noche. “With its warm spice, earthy sweetness and aromatic rosemary, the dish captures the flavors and richness of autumn while still feeling distinctly Noche.”
Natsukashii
Buta No Kakuni
“This hearty and warming Japanese stew,” chef Colin Sato says, “is something my family loved as a fall/winter meal, served with a bowl of steamed rice, and a side of Japanese pickles. I grew up in Chicago and only see my family a few times a year, so getting to cook and eat dishes like this are a way of feeling connected to where I come from when I’m far away.”
This dish, he says, which includes braised pork belly and daikon, is a great example of one of Natsukashii’s core food principles, “which we call ‘food of the people.’ We see the way that people cook and eat in their homes with the people they love as the pinnacle of hospitality – as opposed to the norms of fine-dining. I’ve never seen this dish in a Japanese restaurant in the U.S., but I’ve eaten it countless times at home. I hope that some day people will see soulful but simple cooking like this as the best that dining out can get.”
Ava June
Braised Beef Bourguignon
Walk into Ava June, with its sea-blue walls and continental furniture and decor, and it’s like summer on the French Riviera. But when cooler fall weather comes, they’ve got you covered. According to Chef Trevor Tack – you know him from Lowood and Bodean – “few things scream fall comfort like braised beef bourguignon. It’s the food equivalent of a warm hug by someone with a thick French accent.”
And Trevor’s not just serving any bourguignon.
“Ours,” he explains, “is a braised chuck with pearl onions, mushrooms and red wine jus served over coarse ground polenta topped with freshly grated horseradish. It’s been a staple on the menu since day one!”
Joel Bein
Raviolo
Most of Joel Bein’s and Amanda Simcoe’s work involves catering and small dinner parties. They dazzle a few lucky diners with a cavalcade of magical dishes. Their work is also a total collaboration, and all of this is demonstrated in their autumn dish. It is, Joel explains, a “handmade raviolo stuffed with a mushroom and cheese mousse, with a curried roasted pumpkin puree with mascarpone, roasted and double fried pork belly, arugula oil and toasted pepitas.
“I always love doing a pumpkin curry in the fall,” Joel continues, “and I love doing it with pork belly. My cooking method makes it crispy on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth juicy and tender on the inside. Amanda loves a good pasta dish, typically with cheese as she is the ‘Cheese Wench.’ We’ve combined the things we love in a beautifully balanced, flavor and texture forward, super fall inspired dish.”
OKLAHOMA CITY
Bar Sen
Khao Piek Sen
Chef-owner Jeff Chanchaleune calls Khao Piek Sen his “last meal,” though he says it would have to be his mother’s version. He grew up eating the Lao noodle soup year-round, first made with pork stock before his mother switched to chicken as life became busier. Chanchaleune describes it as nostalgic, comforting and healing, comparing its thick broth and handmade noodles to chicken and dumplings: “Same but different.” Come fall, as temperatures drop and soup season returns, he says Khao Piek Sen is there to “heal their bodies and souls.”
Kitchen No. 324
Chicken Pot Pie
Kitchen No. 324 takes a decidedly hearty approach to chicken pot pie. A béchamel seasoned with carrots, celery, onion, rosemary and thyme is filled with fried chicken, then baked beneath a buttermilk biscuit crust. The restaurant goes one step further by topping the pie with a crispy, buttermilk-brined fried chicken drumstick. Creamy filling, herbs, fried chicken and biscuit bring several familiar comfort-food elements together in one cold-weather dish. The restaurant also prepares diners for the finishing touch: “We even include a wet nap.”
Dougla Kitchen
Walkerswood Jerk Chicken
A little taste of the Caribbean in the fall? Chef Andrew Black’s Walkerswood jerk chicken begins with Jamaica, the country where he was born.
“You can find jerk chicken on almost every corner there,” Black says. Rather than emphasizing heat alone, he describes jerk as layers of herbs and seasonings with a little spice. Mint and tamarind chutneys bring in the Indian side of his family, joining Caribbean and Indo influences on the plate.
For Black, its fall appeal is equally straightforward: the dish is “warm and comforting,” or, as he puts it, “almost like a hug on a plate.”
Le Parisien
Gnocchi à la Parisienne
Le Parisien makes its Gnocchi à la Parisienne from pâte à choux, the same light dough traditionally used for cream puffs and éclairs. Parmesan and Dijon mustard provide the restaurant’s twist before the gnocchi are gently pan-seared and paired with a mushroom blend, Chablisienne sauce and fresh tarragon.
It is a perfect fall dish pairing creamy white-wine sauce and mushrooms for warmth and comfort while keeping the gnocchi light and delicate enough to enjoy beyond the season.
Paseo Grill
Cream of Mushroom Soup
“There’s something about a bowl of cream of mushroom soup that just feels like fall,” says the team at Paseo Grill. The longstanding soup has been a guest favorite for years, particularly as temperatures begin to fall and richer, more comforting dishes return to the table.
The restaurant describes it as a Paseo Grill classic that guests come back to again and again. For the team, its seasonal appeal is uncomplicated: a warm bowl of a familiar favorite, cooler weather and a table in the Paseo.
Tellers
Beef Short Rib Rigatoni
Tellers’ beef short rib rigatoni pairs house-made pasta with house-smoked short rib ragù, black garlic herb gremolata, whipped ricotta, aged Parmesan, chives and toasted breadcrumbs. Chef Jason Jonilonis calls it a “retro Tellers favorite that got an upgrade,” with the short ribs smoked and braised
in-house before meeting fresh rigatoni designed to capture the ragù.
The black garlic gremolata provides brightness against the richer elements. Jonilonis describes the best-selling pasta as an expression of the “comfort and craftsmanship” Tellers looks for in fall cooking.
Vast
Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast
For Vast executive chef Jonas Favela, the seasonal connection is simple: “To me duck shines in fall; Brussels sprouts are in season and apples are plentiful.”
His Maple Leaf Farms duck breast is paired with confit thigh, shaved Brussels sprouts, parsnip-apple purée, peach glaze and caramelized onion panna cotta. Favela calls the confit duck thigh his favorite part of the dish, while the peach glaze incorporates jam made in-house.
The Jones Assembly
Hen & Dumplings
The Jones Assembly’s Hen & Dumplings began as Chef Patrick Hart’s “play on the classic French dish duck à l’orange,” swapping duck for Cornish hen because he felt it “would play better to the masses.” The hen is brined with warming spices, air-dried, roasted and basted with sauce l’orange. Hart calls the semolina dumplings “the star of this dish,” made with potato, semolina and Chisholm Trail Milling sorghum flour. Chile-spiked creamed kale adds the richer component Hart says delivers “that warm hug we need in the colder months.”
The Hutch
Apple Smoked and Braised Pork Shoulder
For chef Kurt Fleischfresser, the formula is straightforward: “Pork-braise-apple-sage. Fall comfort food.” The Hutch’s apple-smoked and braised pork shoulder is served with sage whipped potatoes, grilled scallions and lentils, bringing together the deeper, savory flavors he associates with the season. Fleischfresser says the scallions and lentils are
“a great addition to the plate,” while the inspiration comes directly from autumn itself: “Fall cooking aromas are my favorites and most inspirational.”
Elisabetta
Acorn Squash Mezzaluna
Chefs Mariebel Gamez and Brianna Shear collaborated on Elisabetta’s acorn squash mezzaluna, pairing ricotta-filled pasta with brown butter sage cream, butternut squash relish and toasted pepitas. 84 Hospitality founder Rachel Cope says the dish “literally tastes like fall,” with the squash filling accented by familiar autumn flavors of nutmeg and sage and the pepitas providing texture. Squash, brown butter and warming spices bring the season directly to the plate.
This vs. That: What’s the Difference?
You may assume some foodie items are the same thing, but we’re here to set you straight.
Broth vs. Stock – Broth is usually made with meat; stock leans on bones for body and richness.
Jam vs. Jelly – Jam utilizes crushed fruit; jelly is made from strained fruit juice.
Biscuit vs. Scone – Biscuits tend to be flaky and savory; scones are usually richer, denser and sweeter.
Stuffing vs. Dressing – Stuffing is traditionally cooked inside the bird (stuffed inside, some would say); dressing is cooked separately.
Custard vs. Pudding – Custard gets its silky feel from eggs; pudding usually relies
on starch.
Tart vs. Pie – Tarts usually have an open top and a shallower crust; pies tend to be deeper and covered.
The Great Food Debate
Pick a side.
Crispy bacon or chewy bacon?
Pancakes or waffles?
Smooth or chunky peanut butter?
Ketchup on eggs: Yay or nay?
Pie: Edge piece or middle piece?
French fries: Sauce on the side or all over?
Pantry MVPs
The next time you’re looking through your pantry and say, “I have nothing to cook with,” think again. These humble ingredients do some heavy lifting.
Vinegar – A splash wakes up sauces, soups,
salads and just about anything feeling a little flat.
Soy sauce – Enjoy salt, depth and umami in one bottle.
Tomato paste – Concentrated tomato power adds serious richness to sauces, stews and braises.
Dijon mustard – It’s tangy, savory and an excellent emulsifier for dressings and sauces.
Garlic – Fresh, roasted, fried or confited, garlic always makes things a little tastier.
Oklahoma’s Official State Meal
Did you know that Oklahoma is the first and only state with a formally designated, comprehensive, multi-item, official state meal? Other states have official foods, but only us Okies have concocted an entire spread.
Wondering what’s on it? You’ll need to wear stretch pants if you plan to finish it all. The feast includes cornbread, chicken-fried steak, barbecued pork, sausage, biscuits and gravy, black eyed-peas, corn, okra, grits, squash, strawberries aaaaaand pecan pie, of course.
The meal was established in 1988 by the 41st Oklahoma Legislature, with input from the Oklahoma Department of Agriculture, the Oklahoma Restaurant Association and the Oklahoma Pork Council, among others.
I don’t want to spoil your fun, so I won’t give you the calorie, fat and sodium counts. Enjoy!
