Before burgers and chicken nuggets became a staple of the American diet, folks in Asia were serving their families meals comprised of lean meats, vegetables and rice all rolled into a neat little packaged called sushi. Restaurateurs Kang and Mary Nhin hope to bring that simplicity to Oklahoma City families with their latest opening: Nhinja, a fast and casual take on sushi.
The menu provides plenty for grown ups and kiddos alike. The visually pleasing Dragon Roll is tempura shrimp, cucumber and avacado topped with eel, avacado, eel sauce and scallion. Something more familiar to most sushi novices is the California Roll, which at Nhinja comes stuffed with crab stick, cucumber, avocado and rolled in sesame seeds. Wok offerings, such as Mandarin orange chicken, Spicy Kung Pao and the Hunan Garden will also hit the spot. 13905 N. May Ave., OKC. 405.463.6622,
www.nhinja.com – Jami Mattox
Nhinja Sushi & Wok
Wanda J’s
In the beginning there was Evelyn, who taught her daughter Wanda J. the fine art of southern cooking. And then Wanda J. Armstrong, grown up now, refined the technique and taught her son Ty Walker. Together they ran a little restaurant out near Apache Circle. They called it Wanda J’s. When the poet Alice Lovelace came up from Georgia, she wrote “the food at Wanda J’s is heaven and home.” Then Wanda J. went on to start a lunch place near the airport and named it Evelyn’s. Now things have come full circle and Ty Walker has opened a place in Broken Arrow. He’s named it Wanda J’s.
Don’t let the humble exterior fool you. The new Wanda J’s lives up to its pedigree. Fried chicken so good that just one bite of the crisp, crunchy crust, the chicken inside exploding with juicy flavor, and you’ll be instantly addicted. Other fine choices too: Chicken Fried Chicken with a gravy made from chicken stock, Chicken Fried Steak bathed in a rich brown sauce. No ordinary white gravies here. Like his mother, Ty Walker is an artist. 1105 N. Elm, Broken Arrow. 918.258.5588.
Royal Cousins
Before the Margarita, there was the Tequila Daisy. Before the Sidecar or the Daiquiri, there was the Whiskey Sour. Before the Long Island Iced Tea, well, there was your sobriety. And, before the Martini, there was Turf Club Cocktail. The family tree of cocktails more than slightly resembles the family trees of European monarchies post-1066, awash in bizarre intermarriages between cousins and enemies whose offspring, on occasion, were better left to forgotten convents and monasteries on craggy waysides. The Turf Club Cocktail, however, deserves its due.
The Turf Club and Martini, to be fair, both arrived very shortly and almost simultaneously after the advent of the Manhattan. The bartender’s first instinct is to take a revelatory drink and swap its base spirit with another, then tweak its modifiers accordingly. So it was that the Turf Club took the whiskey from the Manhattan, replaced it with Old Tom Gin (a sweeter style of gin in vogue at the time) and created something very close to the Martinez, also a cousin to the Martini. However, to me, this simple gin-and-sweet-vermouth version of the Turf Club doesn’t satisfy. What makes the Turf Club sing is the eventual addition of absinthe and maraschino liqueur.
Turf Club Cocktail
2 oz. gin
3/4 oz. dry vermouth
1/4 oz. Maraschino liqueur
2 dashes Absinthe
2 dashes Angostura or Orange bitters
Stir all ingredients well in a mixing glass filled with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist.
You can see that this is a drier expression of the drink given its use of French (dry) instead of Italian (sweet) vermouth. For me, the ideal gin and Italian vermouth drink is the Martinez, so this version of the Turf Club suits those for whom a modern Martini is too dry and demand a bit more complexity than that dusty, threadbare fop can offer. The Maraschino adds a nutty sweetness and heavier body to the drink that makes up for the dry qualities of the gin and vermouth, and the absinthe hits a very bright note that registers from start to finish. The Turf Club is a simple and elegant drink that is ill suited to food heavier than the lightest appetizers and should be consumed just as the indigo curtain falls and day exits stage right.
Gabriel Szaszko writes at cocktailnerd.com and enjoys long walks on the beach, sangria in the park and the poetry of Paula Nancy Millstone Jennings.
Italian Fizz
Prosecco is Italy’s answer to France’s champagne and has, of late, become more predominant on store shelves. Not a bad thing at all. Prosecco grapes are grown primarily in the Veneto region of Italy along the foothills of the Alps and the sparkling wine produced from them is characterized by its lightness, citrus overtones and ability to pair with northern Italian fare, especially seafood dishes. The flavor and quality of Prosecco sparkling wine is greatly influenced by the fact that, unlike the Champagne technique, second fermentations occur in pressurized tanks instead of in-the-bottle, and the fermentation process is shorter. This tends to make for a less complex and rich experience than French champagnes provide, but, at the price, the value proposition is tough to argue.
Adriano Adami Prosecco Brut ($12.95): This is a very light and brisk sparkling wine that hits the palate and then leaves it clean and quickly. The primary notes are apple, melon and honey flavors mixed with a high acidity. This isn’t overly dry as some bruts can be and has a very nice palate cleansing effect
Moletto Prosecco ($14): Moletto Prosecco has a similar flavor profile as Adami but is more heavy-bodied and strident. Moletto strikes the palate with more tartness than the Adami and has a longer finish that is more grassy and mineral than the others in this line up.
Cavit Lunetta Prosecco ($12): I’m generally not a fan of Cavit’s products but so long as your expectations aren’t overly high, this Prosecco is serviceable. Not quite as complex as Adami, it has a similar set of tart, citrus and nutty-sweet flavors. However, they are too light and leave all too quickly to make much of an impression.
Mionetto Prosecco Brut ($14): Mionetto is the most distinctive of this round up. It is more reliant on the melon side of the fruit flavor spectrum and has more floral elements than the others. – GS
The Season for Sazon
March is all about fresh herbs. The freeze thaws, seeds sprout and my taste buds reawaken. Spring fever hits and I make myself crazy trying to find the time to clean and chop and serve my family the best of nature’s bounty. Not one to settle for any sort of helper – hamburger or otherwise – I cherish serving fresh, healthy dinners to my family. Sometimes, however, doing more than popping a pizza in the oven seems like an ordeal.
That’s where the Dominican Republic comes in. In this beautiful Caribbean country, locals have figured out how to eat fresh herbs and vegetables on a daily basis with minimal fuss. Here’s how it works: They throw a bunch of ingredients in a blender/processor and give it a whir. This mixture, called a sazon (also sofrito) is stored in the refrigerator and used all week long. Meal after meal, the sazon’s bright flavors lift simple meals to star status, and no chopping is required.
The key to sazon is to make it personal. Every home in the Dominican Republic has its own variation, made with love and according to their preferences. Our version is chock full of peppers, tomatoes, tomatillos, parsley, cilantro, red and green onions and garlic. Make sazon enough and you’ll soon have a favorite combination that works for your family.
Sazon
Makes about 5 cups
Are you haggard in the kitchen? Overwhelmed at the thought of cutting up a bunch of fresh vegetables on a week night, but aware that if you don’t, dinner is going to be bland and unhealthy? Dominican sazon is your answer. Make a batch once or twice a week and you’ll have a great, healthy seasoning base that will amp up any dish. Keep refrigerated or frozen.
2 tomatillos, quartered?
2 roma tomatoes, quartered?
1/2 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped?
1/2 bunch parsley, roughly chopped ?
1 green pepper, cut in half-inch chunks?
1 red pepper, cut in half-inch chunks?
1 red onion, cut in half-inch chunks?
3 green onions, sliced?
6 cloves garlic, quartered?
Salt and pepper
Add tomatillos and tomatoes to the bowl of an 11-cup food processor. Pulse to make a coarse purée. The moistness will also help to process the rest of the ingredients. Add chopped parsley and cilantro and give a few pulses.
Add half of the remaining ingredients and pulse until there is enough room to add the rest. The final mixture should be a coarse blend with larger pieces intermixed. It should not be blended so much that it becomes soupy. Refrigerate until needed. Keeps for about five days.
To use, add to stews, beans and more. For best results, heat oil over medium and brown the sazon prior to combining with other ingredients.
Sasha Martin is cooking one meal for every country in the world at www.globaltableadventure.com. Her picky husband and baby girl are along for the ride. Join the adventure for recipes, reviews and more.
Hunt for a Cure
At the age of 33, Tucker Keeling’s life took a dramatic turn. This father of two young boys was diagnosed with amyotrophic lateral sclerosis, also known as Lou Gehrig’s disease. Living in Las Vegas at the time, he relocated his family to Tulsa to be closer to his extended family. Keeling has battled ALS for more than 10 years now. With support from family and friends, he has remained active and done remarkably well and remains hopeful for a cure for this deadly disease.
Keeling is this year’s honoree for the MDA’s Hunt for a Cure event. Scheduled for Saturday, April 2 at the Hyatt Regency Hotel in downtown Tulsa, Hunt for a Cure benefits the Muscular Dystrophy Association’s research for a cure for ALS.
ALS is a disease of the nerve cells in the brain and spinal cord that control voluntary muscle movement. Nerve cells waste away and can no longer send messages to muscles, which eventually leads to muscle weakening and an inability to move the arms, legs and body. ALS affects approximately five out of every 100,000 people worldwide. The condition slowly gets worse, making it difficult for one to eat and breathe on one’s own. The life expectancy of someone with ALS is three to five years. As of now there is no known cure.
Proceeds from Hunt for a Cure will go directly to research to find a cure for this debilitating disease. Guests of the event will enjoy dinner and wine from several different restaurants, such as the Hyatt Regency, Upper Crust Catering and the Chalkboard. There will also be a live and silent auction and live entertainment.
Terry and Jennifer Keeling, Tucker Keeling’s brother and sister-in-law, are chairing this year’s event.
“This event is special to us because it is an opportunity for us to honor Tucker and to support the MDA who does so much to assist families impacted by ALS,” says Jennifer Keeling.
The couple became involved with the MDA through a friend whose mother also had ALS. The Keelings wanted to do something to help Tucker Keeling and the many others who are affected by this disease.
“Tucker is doing great considering his ALS. We attribute this to his positive attitude and his refusal to accept defeat in the face of the disease,” Jennifer Keeling says.
Tickets are $125 each, or $1,000 for a table of 10. The event begins at 7 p.m. at the downtown Hyatt Regency. For more information on the event and ticket sales, please contact MDA executive director Becky Wilkerson at 918.749.7997 or [email protected].
Steve Cluck’s Purple Pop Party
Nightlife
Steve Cluck’s Purple Pop Party
You know what Steve Cluck is all about – his “Don’t Hate the 918” and “I (Heart) Tulsa” t-shirts deliver a powerful dose of optimism to Tulsans taking advantage of everything the city can offer. Now you can add the nightlife impresario’s Purple Pop Party to your social calendar and live up the first Friday of every month at Enso Bar/Lounge, 230 E. First St., where purple reigns supreme. Singer Prince’s film Purple Rain is the night’s theme, and guests can wear their favorite purple outfits, gorge on purple cupcakes and dance to music inspired by the Purple One. “I used to have a party at my house called the Purple Party,” Cluck says. But now at Enso, the affair is free and open to anyone over 21. www.ensobar.com
A Female Pioneer
Long before Oklahoma Gov. Mary Fallin represented the state in U.S. Congress, another woman left her own indelible mark on the state and the nation: Oklahoma’s first female member of Congress, Alice Mary Robertson.
Robertson, who served in the U.S. House of Representatives from 1921 to 1923, was only the second female in American history to be elected to Congress, yet this was only one of Robertson’s myriad accomplishments.
A champion of Native American rights and education, Robertson was also the first female to work in the Indian Office in Washington, D.C., during the 1870s; the first woman to serve as supervisor for Creek Schools in Indian Territory, shortly before Oklahoma achieved statehood; and the first female postmaster to preside over a first-class post office.
She was responsible for the chartering of the University of Tulsa, the establishment of a V.A. medical center in Muskogee and the improvement of infrastructure throughout Oklahoma. Even after her death in 1931, she continued to be a pioneer: due to her services during the Spanish-American War, she was buried as a veteran of the conflict.
“Robertson never allowed expectations of her gender to stand in the way of her aspirations, accomplishing a great deal even by our modern standard,” says Deah Caldwell, author of “Antisuffragist. Antifeminist! Pro-women? The Anomalous Alice Mary Robertson.”
And yet, while Robertson led the way for so many women in the state and across the nation, she was harried by accusations of anti-feminism throughout her congressional career.
“Local politicians usually attached women’s suffrage to measures they needed to get passed,” notes Caldwell. “Most women during this period lacked a higher education, causing highly educated women like Robertson to vote against suffrage so others would not cast an uneducated vote.
“Looking at Robertson’s lifestyle and accomplishments before her congressional run in 1920, she fulfilled many of the characteristics of a New Woman, an image attached to many of the self-proclaimed feminists,” Caldwell continues. “Robertson, however, lived it.”
First Ladies
Sooner Brewers
In 2010, Eric Marshall’s company witnessed 45 percent growth over the previous year despite a struggling economy.
In 2011, in the face of an economy that only wild-eyed optimists and politicians see as improving more than marginally, that percentage growth is expected to be even higher.
Marshall isn’t in the hedge fund business or in some industry that benefits from foreclosures or government spending. Instead, Marshall is the president and brewmaster at Tulsa-based Marshall Brewing Company, manufacturers of popular lines of hand-crafted, full-strength beers.
“Business has been going very well,” Marshall says. “We’re selling more than we can make. We’re expanding our seasonal beers. We’ve only been distributing in Oklahoma, but we are now looking at selling in other states as well.”
After having initially only sold its beer in keg form, Marshall Brewing began producing 12-ounce bottles for sale in liquor stores a little more than a year ago. The company recently nearly doubled the size of its plant.
“In 2010, we did just under 1,700 (31-gallon) barrels,” Marshall says. “We’re set to make 2,500 to 3,000 barrels this year.”
Marshall isn’t the only Oklahoma brewery to make big strides in a short period of time.
JD Merryweather, co-founder and director of sales and marketing for COOP Ale Works in Oklahoma City, says that the sensibilities born of the recession might actually be part of the impetus for the growth of local breweries.
“You’re seeing a lot of interest in hand-made stuff here in Oklahoma City,” Merryweather says. “People are getting away from industrial made things. There are coffee shops roasting and grinding their beans and little bakeries. Those kinds of things are booming.”
Merryweather says that COOP, has doubled production since launching two years ago and is continuing to experience growth statewide.
As is the case with Marshall, COOP has also added a product line by entering the canned beer market in late 2010. Although its products are still primarily sold on draft, they are also available in liquor stores.
Merryweather says it was pure observation that was the catalyst to launch COOP.
“We saw a vacancy in the market,” he says. “No one was really embracing the Oklahoma City market. I know Marshall’s felt the same way about Tulsa.”
Marshall and COOP have another thing in common, a recurring theme in the stories of local breweries: The companies were began not by veteran brewers, but by small businessmen with passion.
“My dad did a little bit of home brewing, which got me interested,” Marshall says. “Then I studied in Germany my junior year of college and it really caught on. I knew this was for me. When I moved back to Tulsa, my dad had built a home pub. That’s where the sickness started…the hobby got out of hand.”
Marshall would go on to study brewing in Germany and briefly work for Victory Brewing in Pennsylvania before returning home to launch his business. Today its draft products are available from more than 300 tap handles statewide.
Merryweather says his only experience in the beverage industry was working in a restaurant, where wine was more his specialty.
“I got into craft beer in the 1990s,” he says.
Tim Schoelen, president and managing partner of Mustang Brewing Company is also a legacy member of the state brewing community.
“I actually worked in health care, but my dad was a home brewer – it seemed like fun,” Schoelen says.
He was also inspired by his love of Choc Beer, the nearly century-old granddaddy of Oklahoma brews. But it was his appreciation of the contemporary business structure of Samuel Adams that prompted the company’s particular approach. Unlike other brewers in the state, Mustang’s beers are created in other states and then shipped for distribution in Oklahoma and Kansas.
Its model has worked for Mustang.
“We projected selling 7,500 case equivalents last year and we ended up selling 12,000,” Schoelen says. “In September 2009 we sold 281 cases; in September 2010, we sold 2,081 cases. We also won two silver medals at the World Beer Championships.”
Despite different business models, all state brewers operate under very old and sometimes arcane laws governing the sale of beer that, among other things, don’t permit full-strength beer to be sold in grocery or convenience stores.
Today’s brewers are leery to complain about the state’s regulations, citing a lengthy history of less-than-congenial relations with the state. But few seem to feel as if regulation is prohibitive of doing business at their particular level, either.
Marshall says that he was fully aware of Oklahoma’s laws and regulations when the company was launched.
“Every state has its own regulations.” Marshall says. “People can say what they want, but we’ve made it work. If you can say you’re business has grown 40 to 45 percent, I’d say you’re doing well.”
The environment remains open for further expansion.
“The thing is, there is plenty of room for more,” Merryweather says. “There’s not a lot of competition.”
The Blue Rose Buzzes Again
Cruise down that dark and deserted stretch of Riverside just north of the bridge and there, way out over the water, you’ll see lights shining where no light could possibly be. Turn in, park the car, and there are cars and crowds and music – this place has got a groove. Big, shiny windows and blond oak wood – it looks like a cross between a ski chalet and a fishing shack. A party palace.
Tom Dittus is a happy man. Three nights after opening, not an empty seat in the house, and there he is, greeting old friends, running the tap behind the bar, bopping through the crowds and all the while smiling, an irrepressible sign of happiness he can’t control.
It’s been a long time coming. Dittus learned the trade back in the ‘70s, working at Eskimo Joe’s in Stillwater. Then he opened what he calls a “little rhythm and blues joint” in Brookside. You could walk along Peoria even on the grayest, gloomiest day, and without fail there’d be a huge, noisy drinking crowd swarming on a homey wood deck built out toward 34th Street. Bikers and businessmen, chicks and suits, one big happy bunch: Blue Rose Cafe.
The new Blue Rose is more than twice as large, and that’s not counting the big wooden deck over the river. A hundred people could crowd on out there, and come summer they surely will. Inside, it’s sleek, airy, almost industrial, with blond wood and floor to ceiling windows, redeemed from blandness by quirky touches where you’d least expect it. 1920s style ceiling lamps. Beams of tawny wood crossing pipes of black metal. A ghostly white mannequin at a window. An eerie, painted Medusa gliding on an ultramarine sea. Bauhaus meets roadhouse.
Go for a drink or two. You’ll have a fine time. But don’t forget the food. Lots of choices: blackened chicken with onion rings, chicken-fried chicken, a bowl of creamy gravy, fried okra. Sandwiches, salmon fillet, or a big sirloin steak. Best of all (or so it will definitely seem after a night of drinking) is an open-faced burger drenched with chili and all swimming in a lake of gooey cheese, bright and sunny as an egg yolk. This food satisfies primal cravings.
To experience Blue Rose at its finest, go on weekends. There’ll be a band playing. Dittus knows his music, and his choice of bands follows the current restaurant mantra: Go organic, go local. From time to time Oklahoma’s fertile soil spawns a new kind of music: homegrown, original. It happened in the ‘60s with the Tulsa Sound and again in the ‘90s with Red Dirt Music. That’s the kind of bands you’ll find at Blue Rose. Red Dirt Rangers, perhaps, or Mary Cogan. A few days before Mary played, Dittus sent her a note: “Mary tell your peeps to get there early. It’s been kookoo crazy!” Yes it has. And that’s how it should be. 1924 Riverside Dr., Tulsa. 918.582.4600. www.bluerosecafetulsa.com
Fresh Music
Lucinda Williams, Blessed – Lucinda Williams is an acquired taste, but to those with the taste, she’s a goddess. Her voice and musicality are aptly described by the title of her 1998 breakthrough album Car Tires on a Gravel Road; not pretty, but beautiful. She’s also responsible for some of the most gut-wrenching love/loss songs recorded, which left fans to wonder what a new album might sound like now that Williams herself is happily married. Blessed answers that question with songs addressing familiar themes, but also delves into the broader range of human experience. March 1.
R.E.M., Collapse Into Now – It’s hard to believe the seminal alternative rock band has been around for 30 years. It’s even more noteworthy that they’ve managed to stay relevant and continually evolve with the times and changing tastes while maintaining their identity. The band’s 15th studio release carries on with a collection of tender ballads, mid-tempo songs and rocking crowd pleasers. Patti Smith, Eddie Vedder and Peaches are among the collaborators on the album. March 8.
Britney Spears, Femme Fatale – Love her or not, there’s no denying the pop star’s power and remarkable ability to come out on top. She’s done it again with an edgy, urban dance album that may not push any boundaries, but is far from recycled. Ke$ha and will.i.am collaborated with Spears on the album. March 29.
Snoop Dogg, Doggumentary – In true Dogg style, the veteran rapper, producer, actor and ubiquitous collaborator has kept fans guessing about his 11th album – he’s changed the title twice and fueled speculation about collaborations and duets. The result reunites Dogg and rapper/producer Swizz Beatz for an album that ranges from old school to new, gangsta to R&B to hip hop. Kanye West, Gorillaz and R. Kelly join in the party. March 29
