Back Alley Blues & BBQ

Blake Ewing is good at revival. He’s made a once-seedy block of Elgin come alive with vibrant nightspots such as Joe Momma’s and The Max Retropub. And now, if you duck down a little alley on First Street (or enter through the well-marked back door just south of Joe Momma’s), you’ll find your juke joint dreams made real in Back Alley Blues & BBQ. It’s homage and not a copy. And the food’s even better. The ribs, moist and tender with a lovely crust, are so good you don’t need the sauce that is served, as in Memphis, on the side. The sides, in so many places an afterthought, are prepared with loving care. Try the beans, simmered low and slow with sausage, peppers and molasses, or the grease-free, flavorful fried okra or onion rings. Save room for dessert. Few, if any, grandmas could hope to rival Back Alley’s prize-winning peach cobbler. 116 S. Elgin, Tulsa. www.backalleytulsa.com